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M9 PTP Tear Down Guide

m9 ptp tear down guide m9 ptp teardown guide disassembly m9 disassembly

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#1 Outlaw1995

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 09:54 PM

Here is how I tear down the M9 PTP. This procedure will void warranty. Photo creds: aaps59.

Basic Field Strip:
Pull the slide back an 1/8 of an inch, push down on the disassembly pin. (part 51)
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Holding this button down, go to the other side of the pistol and flick down the disassembly lever. (part 50)
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Remove the slide, and you see the recoil spring (part 342), the recoil spring guide rod (part 41), barrel and inner barrel assemblies (multiple parts). This is how you field strip your M9.
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Teardown:

Slide: To take out part 312 (jet nozzle assembly) and the safeties, use a 1.3mm allen wrench to unscrew the safety lever set screw, part 325.
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Remove the safety lever, part 324.
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Push part 35, the firing pin striker, in, while flicking the safety up, (instead of down) to eventually push the whole thing from the right side to the left, to take out the whole safety mechanism.
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There are two springs with little plungers that may spring out when you take the safety out. On the left side on the safety, there's parts 38 and 39, the safety lever plunger "large" and safety lever plunger spring "large" that may pop out, and on the right side there is an inlet in the slide that houses parts 48 and 49 which are the safety lever plunger spring "small" and the plunger spring. These little pieces can be seen here:
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The safety holds part 320 in place.
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Use a thin allen wrench or a flat head screw driver to flex one of the rails on the block assembly, then give the slide a good palm slap. Part 320 should come right out.
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Cylinder return springs x2 (part 19) and the rest of part 320 are seen. Be careful, part 321, the safety cam (seen in picture below on lower left), may drop out, simply place the piece back where it belongs, on the right side of part 320.
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Lift the cylinder return springs off, remove the jet nozzle, and the main seal base can be seen. This piece can be removed with a phillips screwdriver.
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To get into part 312, punch out part 314, the jet nozzle pin. This pin holds the jet nozzle and jet nozzle spring (parts 313 and 315) under tension.
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Once the pin is pushed out, take care because the spring will spring the jet nozzle out. Here are the pieces by themselves... as you notice, I didn't take much care removing one of the cylinder return springs- these springs are very delicate and will bend easily. If not installed properly, these return springs will fail to bring your nozzle back, and result in a failure to go into battery.

Edited by Outlaw1995, 16 August 2012 - 02:47 PM.


#2 Outlaw1995

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 10:02 PM

Lower Frame: Unscrew parts 237 (grip screws x4) They will require a flat head screw driver (for M9 PTP) or a 2mm allen wrench (for M9 Tac. PTP) to turn.
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Once the grips (parts 3 and 3A) are removed, the pistol will look like this.
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Be advised, I've sanded down a portion of my frame, making it look somewhat silver and other parts look black. A normal M9 will be painted fully black, except for its orange tip.

To remove the slide stop (part 341), lift up, and pull out.
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Keep in mind there is a spring under there that retains the trigger pin (part 44) and provides spring tension to the slide stop.
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Remove the trigger bar tension spring (part 47) by pinching in. It provides tension to the trigger transfer bar (part 46).
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Tap out the trigger bar holding the trigger, trigger return spring and trigger transfer bar in place. Hold your hand over the rails of the lower frame to catch the trigger return spring as it flies out.
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Now remove the trigger transfer bar.
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Take out the trigger. (Part 43)
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For reassembly purposes, with the pistol pointing toward the camera, this is an aerial birds-eye-view of the trigger, trigger transfer bar, trigger pin and trigger return spring. Note how the trigger return spring's (part 45) curve on one side rests on the base of the gun, while the circle of the spring hugs the trigger pin, and the other side of the spring rests on the trigger transfer bar. Putting the trigger return spring back into place can be very difficult.
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To put the trigger assembly back, I recommend first putting the trigger transfer bar back in, aligning it with the trigger, and then using some pliers to put the trigger return spring back in while at the same time pushing the trigger pin through the spring's hole.

Edited by Outlaw1995, 27 January 2013 - 07:01 AM.


#3 Outlaw1995

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 10:19 PM

Teardown of M9 PTP Standard Magazine:

Tools you will need:
Hammer, 1/16 allen key, punch, Gas valve key/or a small flat head screwdriver, just be careful

Press in the gas release valve to expel all gas in the magazine.
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Use a 1/16 allen key to remove the screws from beneath the base plate of your magazine. (parts are not listed on KWA magazine diagram... rest assured they are the two screws that are found next to the magazine charging valve)
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Push into the hole nearer to the bb channel is necessary because it pushes down part 928 (magazine base plate lock) which keeps tension on keeping the magazine base (part 113) on. Push this button down once, and slide the base plate off...
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Part 928 will get caught in the hole that surrounds the gas charging valve, so simply push it down again and slide of the base plate completely.
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Holding down part 928, notice see part 911, the magazine base plate lock pin. This pin keeps the magazine base plate lock from springing out due to tension from part 932, (the magazine follower spring.)
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Push this little pin out, and ease part 928 out of its place...
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The photo above shows the magazine follower spring (part 932) on top, and then from left to right: the magazine follower (part 924), the magazine base plate lock pin (part 911), and the magazine base plate lock (part 928).

Use a punch to knock out parts 907-- the magazine base pins x2.
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After pulling out both pins, note that the magazine base (part 906) sticks up just a bit. When you reassemble, you must push this piece down until you can line up the holes to put the pins back through... I'll give you a few tips about that later.
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Remove the magazine charging valve (part 111). You can use a valve key, or use a small flat head screwdriver. Be careful. Using a screwdriver may bend the soft metal and strip the notches. Try as hard as possible not to warp the metal, especially while twisting the valves back into place.
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Part 111 (magazine charging valve) by itself.
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Tip: if you ever need to replace the O-ring, you don't need to take the magazine this far apart, but you do need to take out the rubber band around the middle of inside the valve, and put it a new one.

Edited by Outlaw1995, 16 August 2012 - 02:48 PM.


#4 Outlaw1995

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 10:22 PM

Pinch part 906, (the magazine base) and pull it out of the shell of the magazine.
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Now you can remove the magazine gas release valve (part 110). You can use your gas valve key, or the small flat head screw driver again. Push down on the gas release valve and stick your screwdriver in there..........
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After screwing out the gas release valve, remove it. Here's a pic of it:
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Tip: if you ever want to replace your release valve with an after-market high flow valve, this is exactly how to do it. Simply screw off your stock valve, and screw in the high flow valve.

Use a punch again to knock out the magazine lip pins x2 (part 903)
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After punching out both magazine lip pins, you can pull out the magazine lip (part 922) very easily.
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And that concludes the disassembly of your M9 PTP standard magazine. Here is a pic of all the parts:
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Note: the rubber, rectangular piece next to part 906 is the magazine base seal (part 908). It ensures a solid, air tight seal to prevent leakage... make sure it is on part 906 during reassembly to prevent leakage and make sure it is lubricated to ensure a tight seal!

Reassembly notes:
Do everything in reverse, but take care when:
- Reassembling the gas valves: make sure everything is tight or else you will experience leaks!
- When reassembling the base plate you can do one of two ways to get the pins back in, either...
-A: push the magazine base down on a table and while keeping pressure on it, install the pins. Keep the mag held down on a table's edge to put in the pins in and use a hammer to hammer them through...
-B: Install the base plate and parts 924, 932, 928 and 911 before putting the pins through. Slide the base plate down the rails, holding the magazine base down... that should be able to hold down the base and install your pins...

Edited by Outlaw1995, 16 August 2012 - 02:50 PM.


#5 Outlaw1995

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 07:21 AM

bumping...

#6 gcw360

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 09:18 AM

View PostOutlaw1995, on 12 July 2013 - 07:21 AM, said:

bumping...
Welcome back...

#7 Icurblud

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 03:49 AM

Simply great info.  I have to replace my trigger retun spring on my m9.  Seeing this I feel a lot more comfortable doing so.

#8 kwaispro727

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Posted 03 March 2014 - 07:03 AM

Would shaving down the valve a little make the slide slam back too hard or anything of the sorts?  Having somewhat more limited ammo with the LM4, I'd like to run .25s in my M9 with a little more range.  I'll definitely be needing it come summer.





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