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Compression ring destroyed itself


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#21 jonsun81

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 01:17 PM

Ya man, it's the one you put in.  It's no where near as bad as the op's, just one medium sized chunk missing off it.  Going to home depot to pick up some more.  The cylinder seems to be hitting something as it re enters into the bolt.  Any ideas other than rounding the corners or smoothing edges?

#22 BoobieM4H

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 01:26 PM

View Postjonsun81, on 05 August 2012 - 01:17 PM, said:

Ya man, it's the one you put in.  It's no where near as bad as the op's, just one medium sized chunk missing off it.  Going to home depot to pick up some more.  The cylinder seems to be hitting something as it re enters into the bolt.  Any ideas other than rounding the corners or smoothing edges?
Before doing any mod on bolt or nozzle go pick up an oring kit from harbor freight..the green orings...try that..

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#23 jonsun81

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 02:02 PM

I would, but the nearest one is 30-40 min away.  I'll try putting more rounds into the new oring before I start shaving anything.

#24 Jatodude

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Posted 06 August 2012 - 09:58 AM

Mine did the same thing mid-game. I couldn't get the c-clip off the bolt in time to replace the o-ring. It was pretty disappointing. There could be a design issue if it's happening in the same spot to multiple people.

#25 jonsun81

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Posted 06 August 2012 - 10:18 AM

So re-examining the system, the oring doesn't move past the opening of the bolt so that's not the problem.  Mine lost a chunk after only 300 rounds so I'll be testing again after replacing with a danco #10 and relubing.

Btw, that little metal tab that you need to remove before taking out the cylinder, I had to file some of the underside because the stamped markings weren't flush.  Looks like it could chip off and cause problems to the oring.  Just a guess.

#26 BoobieM4H

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Posted 06 August 2012 - 10:29 AM

View Postjonsun81, on 06 August 2012 - 10:18 AM, said:

So re-examining the system, the oring doesn't move past the opening of the bolt so that's not the problem.  Mine lost a chunk after only 300 rounds so I'll be testing again after replacing with a danco #10 and relubing.

Btw, that little metal tab that you need to remove before taking out the cylinder, I had to file some of the underside because the stamped markings weren't flush.  Looks like it could chip off and cause problems to the oring.  Just a guess.
Pics? What metal tab? Do you mean the nozzle guide on the side of the bolt?

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#27 jakattack1987

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Posted 06 August 2012 - 01:55 PM

as far as i can tell the o ring does come out when shooting, i pull the bolt back as far as i can before the piston pulls back and if you look at it with a flashlight you can see the oring, at least i could but im using a green o ring. i want to find a way to keep it from coming all the way out.  i know it has to be coming out of the cylinder though because i have had orings cleanly torn across the bottom. if you push up on the piston you will notice that you can get the oring to catch on its way back in. i want to just file around the cylinder some more but im afraid if i take off to much metal it might crack on the bottom

#28 niko_gpsy

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 02:43 PM

I don't think the piston o-ring gets pulled out past the edge of the bolt (in the front) but if that is the case you may need to sand that edge smooth.  Try sanding around the front edge of the bolt with very fine grit sandpaper.
Also take a flash light and look inside that bolt to see if you can identify any burrs or debris inside that can be causing the o-ring to get torn up.

#29 jakattack1987

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 07:03 PM

i have already filed the edges and they no longer feel sharp. i would bet money that the o ring is coming out of the cylinder that is the only way i can see this kind of damage being done, there are no burs or anything out of ordinary with the cylinder. Also like i said if i pull the bolt back till right before the nozzle snaps back in the cylinder i can see the o ring with a flashlight, i dont see why it would be any different when im actually shooting just happens faster and you cant see it. does anybody know what holds the nozzle until it snaps back, my guess is the nozzle pushed in the hop up but not totally sure

#30 jonsun81

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 09:01 PM

A spring, i couldnt get mine past as i too thought this before i tried it.

#31 jakattack1987

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 02:45 PM

View Postjonsun81, on 07 August 2012 - 09:01 PM, said:

A spring, i couldnt get mine past as i too thought this before i tried it.
what im confused what you are saying

#32 jonsun81

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 03:23 PM

A spring holds the nozzle, and I too thought I needed to shave the back end of the bolt but when I tried to pull nozzle back the spring doesn't let it get past the opening.

#33 jakattack1987

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 06:42 PM

no i was asking what holds the nozzle in place while the bolt shoots back, anyway tonight i took off the metal nozzle stopper and put the bolt back in the gun. i pulled the charging handle all the way back and without the stopper the nozzle never snapped back into the bolt know matter how fast i pulled the charging handle. so im certain now the oring comes out of the cylinder when firing. so i guess i will glue some kind of piece to the side of the plastic guide on the nozzle so the oring cant come out of the nozzle.

#34 BombRush2DaDeath808

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 11:10 PM

would a #11 Danco o-ring work? or is it to big?

#35 niko_gpsy

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 03:57 AM

View PostBombRush2DaDeath808, on 16 August 2012 - 11:10 PM, said:

would a #11 Danco o-ring work? or is it to big?
Danco#11 will not work.  I have tried danco #7-12 before I suggested the #10.  I did buy the green o-ring set from Freight Harbor but since my danco work so well I do not feel the need to change it out.




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