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LM4 Check up


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#21 devil69

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 05:59 PM

I have some patches that came with my RS cleaning kit, ill use them. I'll probably do all that cleaning Saturday morning when I get home. That way when I get to actually strip it down Sunday it'll be one less thing to have to do.

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#22 gcw360

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 06:59 PM

Just as an FYI, the LM4 I received did not come with a bottle of silicone.  You may need to pick some up on line.  25-30wt R/C shock oil is cheap and very effective.

See here: http://www.amazon.co...l/dp/B0006O2ED6

#23 wurger

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 07:14 PM

View Postgcw360, on 07 June 2012 - 06:59 PM, said:

Just as an FYI, the LM4 I received did not come with a bottle of silicone...

Mine didn't, either. I feel slightly cheated.

I'm trying to work up the nerve to try the Lubriplate SFL-0 grease that I use on my RS AR. It seems thinner than the silicone oil, and I'm starting to suspect that part of the reason the LM4 "bolt" frequently doesn't retract all the way is some "stiction" from the silicone oil.

#24 Viet

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 07:23 PM

View Postwurger, on 07 June 2012 - 07:14 PM, said:


Mine didn't, either. I feel slightly cheated.

I'm trying to work up the nerve to try the Lubriplate SFL-0 grease that I use on my RS AR. It seems thinner than the silicone oil, and I'm starting to suspect that part of the reason the LM4 "bolt" frequently doesn't retract all the way is some "stiction" from the silicone oil.

Be careful when using real steal cleaners and products.  Those are not made for airsoft.  The chemicals that are in real steal cleaning kits are strong, they are meant to lift and clean carbon and other particulates that your LM4 will never see.  These lubes and other chemicals used in RS kits may degrade or damage the plastic internal parts of your airsoft guns.  I'm not saying that the grease you are using is part of that, because I honestly dont know anything about that compound myself.  But I'm just throwing you the warning now, just in case.

I do suggest that dri-film stuff that Nikko has been testing tho.  hope i spelled it right, Nikko please correct me if i'm wrong.

#25 Guest_Allizard_*

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 10:29 PM

While we are on the subject of cleaning.  This gun LM4 sure require more cleaning than AEG.  I could be because our field is more dusty and the nature of M4 itself require more care.  So I do recommend you clean the gun every time after you use it outdoor.

#26 Darth Genesis

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 04:24 AM

Mine didn't come with the oil either. And if I'm not mistaken doesn't the owners guide list oil as one of the included parts. Is someone snipping our oil or did someone forget to put it in the box?

#27 devil69

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 12:46 PM

I received mine today, I also didn't receive any oil. Which isn't so odd anymore considering looks like no one else has either.

The only fields we have here are outdoor, ill probably use the silicone after each match or something. Run a quick once over through the inner barrel that way its always clear. I seen a topic about it misfiring on full auto, I think I'm going to keep it on semi unless I have to switch to full for some reason.

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#28 devil69

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Posted 09 June 2012 - 01:02 PM

When I got home this morning, I immediately disassembled the rifle and cleaned as much factory oil as I could out of it with a cotton based RS patch. Surprisingly enough, it really wasn't that dirty. All together I think the hammer and bolt were the dirtiest parts. Tomorrow I'm going to lubricate all of it and check to make sure my valves are good. I do have a question, how exactly do I lubricate the piston(inside of steel bolt) also, are the two screws that I should add lock tight to, are the inside the hand guard? Sorry for the dumb questions.
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Edited by devil69, 09 June 2012 - 01:04 PM.


#29 Epitaph

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Posted 09 June 2012 - 01:10 PM

I lube the main o-ring inside the piston by pulling the piston from the bolt carrier enough that I can see the o-ring. I then place a drop of silicone oil on it, and try to rotate the o-ring gently with a fingernail while coating as much of it with the drop of oil as I can. If you want to be real thorough I supposed you could knock out the C-clip from the rear of the BCG and pull out the piston completely to have better access to the o-ring. Just dont lose the C-clip!

And yes, the two set screws to loctite are under the handguards near the delta ring.

#30 devil69

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Posted 09 June 2012 - 02:41 PM

Thanks a ton man! I don't think I'll get THAT thorough about it, but, ill keep it in mind.

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