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Kwa Lm4 Series - 3Rd Party Compatibility List


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#381 Jeffsworkshop

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 03:55 AM

The issue I found with the Crusader Tech BAD CASS Safety Selector Levers is that while most GBB designs use the same safety detent shape as the real steel "pointy" end to engage the safety axis, KWA uses a pot metal rod that has a more rounded tip. Crusader machined their selector axis with a "Pointy" pit, which the rounded tip of the KWA detent could not fully insert into, causing slippage of the selector settings.

Included in the package of the RS Battle Arms Development Ambidextrous Safety Selector Full-Auto kit is the KNS Safety Detent, which happens to fully seat into the Crusader selector axis pit. The result after installing the two parts together is a very positive "Click" into selected positions, and requires an intentional amount of force to change selector settings.

Here is a rough guide on how the KNS detent was installed;

A Hex Bolt was ground to form a spring guide;
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The detent slot was very slightly enlarged, and the detent spring stretched, and cut short;
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Installed;
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#382 BeachEMT

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 02:10 PM

Is there anything wrong with taking a ball-nosed bit and drilling out a large enough round divot on the selector for the stock detent?

#383 Jeffsworkshop

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 08:47 PM

Beach, the stock detent is made from soft pot metal, and will wear pretty quickly from repeated selector use, causing slight movement in the selected fire modes.
If drilling the selector axis is the way you want to go, I suggest modifying the stock detent by slightly shortening it, create a pit on the surface of the detent, then use a 3mm diameter steel ball bearing to create the detent tip that engages the selector divot. This will create a much more durable and smooth/secure setup from the stock.

Finally from experience a ball tipped engagement surface for the selector detent requires much less force to knock out of position, and by drilling the divot any deeper would not allow the detent to disengage the divot, locking the selector at that position.

The ball nosed bit drilling was also what I had in mind to combat the lack of detent engagement issue in the first place, but found that by modifying the detent part of the equation it was actually quicker and have the added bonus of a more secure selector setting whilst installing yet another real steel part to my LM4!

#384 BeachEMT

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 11:21 PM

Yeah, putting RS parts in is definitely a plus. I also hear you on better engagement. I was just thinking about selector compatibility down the road. This means that you would no longer be able to use selectors specifically designed for the LM4. I'm assuming you used the KSC selector, as I see WGC has WA, VFC and KSC models? Would this now mean that all selectors designed for KSC are drop-in?

#385 Jeffsworkshop

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 07:08 AM

The stock KWA LM4 and the KSC M4 both share the same round detent/divot design. It was only because the Crusader Tech BAD CASS Selector milled the axis position divot with the pointed design, which created the whole weak selector position issue as the stock round detent of the LM4/KSC M4 would not fully engage into the divot.

I needed to use the selector axis of the Crusader Tech to install my real steel BAD selector levers mentioned in the previous page, and since the selector is not something that needs replacing or wears out frequently, the modification was done as a semi-permanent solution this problem. But yes, If I do want to install the stock KSC selector, I'd need to reinstall the stock detent, or even better the steel ball bearing mod mentioned in my previous post.

#386 kwaispro727

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 09:42 AM

Does anyone know if the madbull VTAC rail will work?

http://www.evike.com/products/36984/

I would love to put this on an LM4 if I get one.

#387 BeachEMT

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 03:15 PM

Yeah. Either Tim or Bob from ASGI has it on his LM4. I think it's Tim.

#388 Murray0311

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 05:15 PM

Wanting to put a full stock on my LM4, anyone done this or know if it will require any modification?

I was thinking of doing a BCM full size stock

http://www.bravocomp...kit - black.htm

#389 kwaispro727

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Posted 17 November 2013 - 09:12 AM

Does anyone know if the madbull ace sopmod stick will fit without too much modification if any? It's designed for an AEG... I don't know if that matters here.

#390 The Nutty Professor

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 11:40 AM

Murray I was well...sampling some a new micro-b one night and grabbed my LM4. I have a lot of RS parts from my work M4. Every stock I tried fit without issue including a Mil-spec full stock I was about to throw out. There was a slight amount of wobble but I think that was due to the operator's condition not the condition of the part or my LM4

#391 PonZee

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 07:09 PM

Will a http://www.evike.com/products/42149/ fit on the LM4 buffer tube?

#392 BeachEMT

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 08:56 PM

It should.

#393 kwaispro727

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 05:30 PM

So, can anyone confirm the Sopmod Ace stocks working? Without ridiculous modifications?  I know they are fairly difficult to get onto a KWA AEG.

#394 BeachEMT

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 06:15 PM

It's been stated earlier in the thread. It's impossible to use AEG stocks on GBBs. They use totally different attachment methods. AEGs have a solid end cap so there's no way for the bolt to reciprocate.

#395 LactoseFairy

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 04:49 AM

Madbull Daniel Defense Omega 9" RIS
Magpul PTS AAC Blackout 51T Flashhider
Magpul Mil Spec MOE Fixed Carbine Stock
Magpul MOE-K Grip
Echo1 SPR Gas Block (I had to ditch the mock gas tube because of the RIS not having space for it, but it fit, even the pin to hold the tube in place)

All fit well, the rail was quite the hassle to get on, but doable.


DOES NOT FIT:
G&G Steel MK36 Flashhider (Long)

#396 kwaispro727

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Posted 14 December 2013 - 11:15 AM

Has anyone tried putting on a RS GLR16 stock? (Israeli defense standard issue) Although it supposedly fits both commercial and mil. spec. buffer tubes, I heard there is some sort of issue in getting it on.  Two tabs that need to be pulled out or something weird?

#397 StarSlayer

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 06:37 PM

Hi everyone, this is my first time posting on the forums, so first greetings and salutations.  

I attempted to install a Noveske QD end plate on my LM4C.  I needed to remove some material from the lower receiver inset with a Dremmel but in the end I got it to sit flush.  Unfortunately when I attempted to plug in a MagPul MS3 QD I found there wasn't enough clearance under the castle nut.  I noticed Jeffsworkshop has also installed the same back plate and figured I might see if the community might have some suggestions?  I don't suppose there is a thinner castle nut?

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#398 Jeffsworkshop

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:06 AM

View PostStarSlayer, on 11 January 2014 - 06:37 PM, said:

Hi everyone, this is my first time posting on the forums, so first greetings and salutations.  

I attempted to install a Noveske QD end plate on my LM4C.  I needed to remove some material from the lower receiver inset with a Dremmel but in the end I got it to sit flush.  Unfortunately when I attempted to plug in a MagPul MS3 QD I found there wasn't enough clearance under the castle nut.  I noticed Jeffsworkshop has also installed the same back plate and figured I might see if the community might have some suggestions?  I don't suppose there is a thinner castle nut?


Hey SS, I believe the LM4's castle nut have a slightly larger outer diameter then the milspec version, therefore it may interfere with the QD on the MS3. I installed RS Vltor lower receiver extension with RS Colt castle nut, and there are no interference with QD function, although the gap between the nut and the QD swivel is indeed very small.

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Hope this answers your question!

#399 StarSlayer

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 11:34 AM

Jeff thank you very much for the info.  Do you think I would need to replace the entire buffer tube or can I simply try out a Mil Spec castle nut such as a Tapco model?

#400 Jeffsworkshop

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 09:13 AM

You might be able to use the milspec nut on your stock tube, but because the thread pitch is slightly different between the two (one being imperial and the other metric), it might not sit true on the buffer tube, or might not thread on at all. I had to re-tap my lower receiver to install the Vltor tube, otherwise it would only go in about 4 threads then get stuck, and sits slightly crooked.




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