It's Back And Won't Go Away
Posted 20 March 2012 - 11:52 AM
As I was firing in semi-auto while fine tuning my scope yesterday, I noticed the trigger was becoming slightly (like barely noticeable) harder to pull. I didn't pay much attention to it because it hadn't done anything of the kind for a while. I kept on shooting in semi-auto, and then switched to full-auto to do some bursts. After about 3-5 bursts the trigger tightened up qutie a bit. As described in previous posts it began to have two stages. After about another 2 or 3 bursts it reached it's "peak" in how the trigger tightens.
Exactly what it does is this. In SEMI-AUTO, when you pull the trigger the first half of the way there is some resistance. Once you get past that you hit a "hard spot" about half way, right before the gun should normally be firing. That is the first stage, during which the gun will fire in full-auto (it also seems to begin firing way to early in the pull) unless the trigger is pulled fast enough, at which point the first stage is bipassed completely, except for the "hard spot" which is still very noticeable. Right after the hard spot it will fire semi-auto normally. In FULL-AUTO, what happens is exactly the same, except the gun functions in full-auto all of the time instead of semi and full. In both firing modes, the gun begins to fire early, before reaching the "hard point".
The motor seems to heat up very quickly. I can feel the warmth through the grip and it's almost hot after about 700-800 rds.
Sorry for the over-usage of "trigger" and "pull". Hopefully someone has experienced this or atleast has some clue what I'm talking about.
Posted 20 March 2012 - 12:57 PM
This is the same problem you had before, right?
If my memory serves me correctly, you did get this fixed at one point.
Posted 20 March 2012 - 01:37 PM
Posted 20 March 2012 - 02:32 PM
Posted 20 March 2012 - 02:55 PM
Posted 20 March 2012 - 04:27 PM
Posted 20 March 2012 - 05:55 PM
Posted 21 March 2012 - 03:44 AM
Posted 21 March 2012 - 11:23 AM
I had some free time today to work on getting it open down to the gearbox. Once you get the buffer tube screw out, the wiring in the buffertube and the gearbox are separate, and joined together inside. After I get the rubber stuff off around where they plug into eachother, do I need to put anything over it again when I plug them back together? Heres what I mean if I wasn't clear.
[attachment=795:Photo on 3-21-12 at 4.39 PM.jpg]
Edited by kwaispro727, 21 March 2012 - 12:38 PM.
Posted 21 March 2012 - 02:46 PM
And you can just slip some heat shrink over those connections when reassembling.
Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:24 PM
Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:32 PM
Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:56 PM
Edited by kwaispro727, 21 March 2012 - 06:20 PM.
Posted 22 March 2012 - 02:59 PM
[attachment=796:Photo on 3-22-12 at 6.57 PM.jpg]
Posted 22 March 2012 - 03:59 PM
Posted 22 March 2012 - 04:20 PM
Apparently the 2gx gearboxes are screwed together with star screws... unfortunately I do not own a set of star keys. Would you happen to know if Home Depot sells them?
Edited by kwaispro727, 22 March 2012 - 04:32 PM.
Posted 22 March 2012 - 05:38 PM
Posted 22 March 2012 - 06:06 PM
Posted 22 March 2012 - 06:17 PM
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