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Full Disassembly Guide Of M9 Ptp W/ Pictures

m9 ptp disassembly

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#1 Outlaw1995

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 05:20 PM

More has been added to the guide. Unless I know how to move posts up to the top, please scroll through the whole thread to find more disassembly instructions of tearing your M9 PTP down.

Here is the way to completely teardown your gun to the bare minimum. Photo creds: KWA forum's very own, aaps59.

For the complete tear down, you will need: A flat head screw driver and/or allen wrench, 2mm allen wrench, 1.3mm allen wrench, a set of punches to punch out pins, some pliers are optional, and a plate or other object to keep your springs, screws, etc safe while working on your gun. You can buy a set of allen wrenches and flat head screwdrivers at any hardware store, such as Walmart-- and a plate or dish.... you can probably find one around the house... LOL

To field strip your gun for basic maintenance:

First, you want to pull the slide back an 1/8 of an inch or so, and push down on the disassembly pin. (part 51)

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Holding this button down, go to the other side of the pistol and flick down the disassembly lever. (part 50)
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Letting go of the slide will give you access to the recoil spring (part 342), the recoil spring guide rod (part 41), barrel and inner barrel assemblies (multiple parts). This is how you field strip your M9.
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Onto the teardown:

To remove the disassembly lever, button and spring, simply flick the disassembly lever the opposite way (up) while holding down on the button, and the button should pop out because of the spring tension. Be careful not to loose the spring attached to the button.

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Here you can see parts 50 (disassembly lever), 51 (disassembly button/pin) and 52 (disassembly pin spring).
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To get into the pistol's lower frame, start by unscrewing parts 237. These are the grip screws. Four come on the gun, and require either a flat head screw driver or 2mm allen wrench allen wrench to turn. On the PTP, you will need the flat head screw driver, on the PTP Tactical, a 2mm Allen wrench.

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Once the grips (parts 3 and 3A) are removed, you will have the pistol looking like this.
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Be advised, I've sanded down a portion of my frame, making it look somewhat silver and other parts look black. A normal M9 will be painted fully black, except for its orange tip.

To remove the slide stop (part 341), simply lift up on it, and pull back,
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Keep in mind there is a spring under there that retains the trigger pin (part 44) and provides spring tension to the slide stop.
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Here are parts 341 (slide stop) and 54 (slide stop spring) all by themselves.
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To take off the trigger transfer bar (part 46), first you need to take off the spring underneath it providing tension. (Part 47) or The trigger bar tension spring can be easily squeezed to get it from under the notch it rests.
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You may then remove the trigger transfer bar.
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Edited by Outlaw1995, 07 May 2012 - 02:41 PM.


#2 Outlaw1995

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 05:38 PM

Taking off the trigger pin (part 44) is as easy as using a small punch or allen wrench to knock it out. This will allow the trigger and trigger return spring to move freely. NOTE: in this picture you still see the trigger transfer bar still in the photo. If you take the trigger pin out before the trigger transfer bar you risk your trigger return spring (part 45) springing freely- meaning you may lose your trigger return spring. To make sure you don't lose your trigger return spring, simply put your hand over the slide and the spring will fly into your palm.

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You may now take out the trigger. (Part 43)
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Pushing this button will release the hammer assembly and valve knocker/ impact block assemblies.
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With the pistol pointing toward the camera, this is an aerial birds-eye-view of the trigger, trigger transfer bar, trigger pin and trigger return spring. Note how the trigger return spring's (part 45) curve on one side rests on the base of the gun, while the circle of the spring hugs the trigger pin, and the other side of the spring rests on the trigger transfer bar. Putting the trigger return spring back into place can be very difficult.
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To put the trigger assembly back, I recommend first putting the trigger transfer bar back in, aligning it with the trigger, and then using some pliers to put the trigger return spring back in while at the same time pushing the trigger pin through the spring's hole.

For reassembly do all these steps in reverse.

Now for the slide.

To take out part 312 (jet nozzle assembly) and the safeties, start by using a 1.3mm allen wrench to unscrew the safety lever set screw, part 325.
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Then just remove the safety lever, part 324.
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Then push part 35, the firing pin striker in, while pushing the safety up, (instead of down) to eventually push it from the right side to the left, to take out the whole safety mechanism.
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Be careful, there are two springs with little plungers that may spring out when you take the safety out. On the left side on the safety, there's parts 38 and 39, the safety lever plunger "large" and safety lever plunger spring "large" that may pop out, and on the right side there is an inlet in the slide that houses parts 48 and 49 which are the safety lever plunger spring "small" and the plunger spring. These little pieces can be seen here:
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The above photo has parts 48 and 49 in their respective inlet, and the photo below has all the parts shown on the table, where the inlet you see near the safety houses parts 38 and 39.

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The safety holds part 320 in place.
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Using a thin allen wrench or punch, flex one of the rails on the block assembly, then give the slide a good palm slap. Part 320 should come right out.

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When you take part 313 out, the cylinder return springs x2 (part 19) and the rest of part 320 are seen. Be careful, part 321, the safety cam (seen in picture below on lower left), may drop out, simply place the piece back where it belongs, on the right side of part 320.

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Under the jet nozzle, the main seal base can be seen. This piece can be removed with a phillips screwdriver.

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To get into part 312, use a small 1.3mm allen wrench to punch out part 314, the jet nozzle pin. This pin holds the jet nozzle and jet nozzle spring (parts 313 and 315) under tension.

Once the pin is pushed out, take care because the spring will spring the jet nozzle out. Here are the pieces by themselves... as you notice, I didn't take much care removing one of the cylinder return springs- these springs are very delicate and will bend easily. If not installed properly, these return springs will fail to bring your nozzle back, and result in a failure to go into battery.

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This pretty much concludes the takedown of the M9. If you want to view these pictures and a few more, check them out at: http://s1055.photobu...16/Outlaw_1995/  
If any part of the info is incorrect, please let me know for the greater good of the forum and I'll edit it as soon as possible. Thanks guys.

Outlaw

Edited by Outlaw1995, 21 March 2012 - 06:19 PM.


#3 gcw360

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 06:08 PM

Nice job.

#4 aaps59

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 06:10 PM

Brilliant work
The post isn't half bad either! :rolf2:

#5 gcw360

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 06:11 PM

I'm impressed, with the other alterations, that the orange tip is intact.

#6 Outlaw1995

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 06:17 PM

View Postgcw360, on 31 January 2012 - 06:11 PM, said:

I'm impressed, with the other alterations, that the orange tip is intact.
It's always bugged people- and they ask the same question! I guess I just love the law! (Even though I'm Outlaw) LOL ...

View Postaaps59, on 31 January 2012 - 06:10 PM, said:

Brilliant work
The post isn't half bad either! :rolf2:
It's good 'cuz it's got your name on it. ;)

Edited by Outlaw1995, 16 February 2012 - 05:14 PM.


#7 aaps59

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 06:19 PM

View PostOutlaw1995, on 31 January 2012 - 06:17 PM, said:

It's always bugged people- and they ask the same question! I guess I just love the law! (Even though I'm Outlaw) LOL ...


It's good 'cuz it's got your name on it. ;)

my name makes everything better

#8 Spiggy

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 01:00 PM

Writeup looks pretty good.  I think with some minor editing and writing, we could have a potential sticky!

#9 xX Chaotic Cam

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 12:18 AM

I may be mistaken, but shouldn't this be in the PTP sub-forum???

#10 gcw360

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 03:56 AM

Not necessarily since there is a dedicated M9 forum which it is in.

#11 Outlaw1995

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 09:03 AM

Disassembling your magazine release assembly and switching magazine button sides:
After you field strip your M9, take the grips off using a flat head screw driver (for M9 PTP) or allen wrench/ hex screwdriver (M9 PTP Tac).
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Locate your magazine release. In the picture above, part 153 (magazine catch) is located on the right side of the weapon, useful for lefties.

So, starting with the magazine catch on the left side, useful for righties, and how your gun originally comes... Turn your pistol to the right side. Pushing the non button side of part 153 in and up will thrust your magazine catch (magazine release button) out.
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Here's a picture of 153 with parts 75, 77, 76, (magazine catch bushing "right", magazine catch spring, and magazine catch bushing "left" in order from left to right in the picture:
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Turning part 153 with it's useful components upside down, you see how the two bushings react.
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When being reinstalled, one bushing must be pushed in so the other can fit into place. The bushings fit into this spot in the lower frame:
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To put the magazine release button on the left side (suitable for righties) slide part 153 through the frame. Once part 153 is through, tilt it up, and let the bushing closet to the button hit the notch it rests on, scrunching up the spring (part 77 and push the right side of part 153 into place.
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Below, the non button side is seated on the right side of the frame... This configuration is suitable for righties.
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To put the magazine release button on the right side, start by pushing the non button end in and up, and installing the nonbutton end first through the right side of the frame to the left. Push the bushing closest to the magazine button into the notch it rests on, and push in the non button side- just like how we did for putting the magazine catch in on the other side.
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Once seated, the magazine catch will become functional. Just to test, put a magazine in and see if it catches. The picture you see below is suitable for lefties.
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If you have further trouble, I suggest you refer to this video made by Baretta.

Edited by Outlaw1995, 28 April 2012 - 06:20 PM.


#12 Outlaw1995

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 07:42 PM

Teardown of M9 PTP Standard Magazine:

Tools you will need:
Hammer, 1/16 allen key, 5/64 allen key, Gas valve key: http://www.airsoftgi...roducts_id=3658 (or a small flat head screwdriver, just be careful)

First off, press in the gas release valve to make sure you have expelled all gas from your magazine.
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Next, use a 1/16 allen key to remove the screws from beneath the base plate of your magazine. (parts are not listed on KWA magazine diagram... rest assured they are the two screws that are found next to the magazine charging valve)
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Pushing into the hole nearer to the bb channel is necessary because it pushes down part 928 (magazine base plate lock) which keeps tension on keeping the magazine base (part 113) on. Simply push this button down once, and slide the base plate off...
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Part 928 will get caught in the hole that surrounds the gas charging valve, so simply push it down again and slide of the base plate completely.
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Holding down part 928, you can see part 911, the magazine base plate lock pin. This pin keeps the magazine base plate lock from springing out due to tension from part 932, or the magazine follower spring.
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Simply push this little pin out, (literally requires no effort), and ease part 928 out of its place...
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The photo above shows the magazine follower spring (part 932) on top, and then from left to right: the magazine follower (part 924), the magazine base plate lock pin (part 911), and the magazine base plate lock (part 928).

Next up, use a 5/64 allen key as a punch to knock out parts 907-- the magazine base pins x2.
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After pulling out both pins, please note that the magazine base (part 906) sticks up just a bit. When you reassemble, you must push this piece down until you can line up the holes to put the pins back through... I'll give you a few tips about that later.
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Now you can remove the magazine charging valve (part 111). You can use a gas valve key like this one: http://www.airsoftgi...roducts_id=3658, or use a small flat head screwdriver. Be careful. Using a screwdriver may bend the soft metal and make your slots too big to be able to unscrew. Try as hard as possible not to warp the metal, especially while twisting the valves back into place.
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Here's part 111 (magazine charging valve) by itself.
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Tip: if you ever need to replace the O-ring, you don't need to take the magazine this far apart, but you do need to take out the rubber band around the middle of inside the valve, and put it a new one.

Edited by Outlaw1995, 28 April 2012 - 07:57 PM.


#13 Outlaw1995

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 08:22 PM

At this point, you may also go ahead and pinch part 906, (the magazine base) and pull it out of the shell of the magazine.
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Now you can remove the magazine gas release valve (part 110). You can use your gas valve key, or the small flat head screw driver again. Push down on the gas release valve and stick your screwdriver in there...............
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Once you fully screw out the gas release valve, you can take it out. Here's a pic of it:
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Tip: if you ever want to replace your release valve with an after-market high flow valve, this is exactly how to do it. Simply screw off your stock valve, and screw in the high flow valve.

Now use your 5/64 allen key as a punch again to knock out the magazine lip pins x2 (part 903)
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After punching out both magazine lip pins, you can pull out the magazine lip (part 922) very easily.
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And that concludes the disassembly of your M9 PTP standard magazine. Here is a pic of all the parts:
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Note: the rubber, rectangular piece next to part 906 is the magazine base seal (part 908). It ensures a solid, air tight seal to prevent leakage... make sure it is on part 906 during reassembly to prevent leakage.

Reassembly notes:
Do everything in reverse, but take care when:
- Reassembling the gas valves: make sure everything is tight or else you will experience leaks!
- When reassembling the base plate you can do one of two ways to get the pins back in, either...
        -A: push the magazine base down on a table and while keeping pressure on it, install the pins. Keep the mag held down on a table's edge to put in the pins in and use a hammer to hammer them through...
        -B: Install the base plate and parts 924, 932, 928 and 911 before putting the pins through. Slide the base plate down the rails, holding the magazine base down... that should be able to hold down the base and install your pins...

#14 Outlaw1995

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Posted 26 October 2012 - 09:51 AM

Bump.

Edited by Outlaw1995, 05 January 2013 - 09:48 PM.


#15 SKELETOR

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 05:16 PM

Can you please make a guide for the m93r I'm having difficulty putting it back together. :(

#16 gcw360

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 05:38 PM

View PostSKELETOR, on 11 October 2013 - 05:16 PM, said:

Can you please make a guide for the m93r I'm having difficulty putting it back together. :(
Outlaw has gone off to College and is not on the Forums much these days. Please see you OP and thread.





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