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G36c flashider


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#1 chris27

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 03:01 PM

I want to put a silencer on my G36c, but first i have to take off the flashider. so, how would I do this?

#2 Stealthmaster14

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 05:02 PM

View Postchris27, on Feb 10 2009, 04:01 PM, said:

I want to put a silencer on my G36c, but first i have to take off the flashider. so, how would I do this?

The underside of the flash hider should have a 1.5mm allen screw.  Take an allen wrench of the equivalent size and unscrew it.  The flash hider should be counter-clockwise, so if you are looking down the barrel, turn the flashider to the right.

#3 chris27

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 04:01 PM

ok, so  I see the hole where the screw is supposed to be, and I tried turning an allen wrench inside of it, but it seems like there is no screw in the hole, but only plastic at the bottom. is there a screw or not, because I was not able to locate it.

#4 Guest_allizard_*

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 11:26 PM

there is no plastic anywhere near the flash hider.  Do you have the correct size of allen wrench?

#5 chris27

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 03:52 PM

I used inch system allen wrench, but it seemed to fit, so maybe it was too small. but, if that wasn't the problem, then what would be? which way should i turn the screw?

#6 Stealthmaster14

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 07:01 PM

View Postchris27, on Feb 12 2009, 04:52 PM, said:

I used inch system allen wrench, but it seemed to fit, so maybe it was too small. but, if that wasn't the problem, then what would be? which way should i turn the screw?

Our units of measurement will not work. (I've tried) You will need a METRIC set.  1.5mm is what pretty much all flashiders use.

You turn the screw like you would with any other screw.  Left to loosen, right to tighten.  (lefty loosy righty tighty :D)

The flashhider is CCW, so turn it left to tighten and right to loosen. (if you are looking down the barrel)

#7 chris27

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 07:35 PM

lets say I manage to get the flashider off. would I be able to put this on it:
http://www.airsoftpo...se-p-29489.html


or would the hand guard get in the way?

Edited by chris27, 12 February 2009 - 07:39 PM.


#8 Stealthmaster14

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 09:20 PM

It should fit, but you do know that fields do NOT accept those because they can be easily removed and apparently don't work during full auto.  (it also affects accuracy)

#9 chris27

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 10:34 PM

really? well that's depressing.  :(  is there any way to temporarily bring down the velocity, so that i can use my KG36c for cqc when I want to?

#10 Stealthmaster14

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Posted 13 February 2009 - 09:45 AM

I'm afraid not :(   Your only option is to swap the spring out.  Our buy another gearbox and put a weaker spring in it so you can swap out the gearboxes.  (it would take like 4 minutes)

If you are low on cash, you could pick up an E1/JG gearbox and buy a new spring.  (or cut coils off the stock one)  That would cost about 60-70 bucks depending on where you get it and if you get a new spring.  (which I would suggest)  

With a reshim/regrease, E1/JGs will last a while, but obviously they are nowhere near the quality of KWA.

#11 Sgt12Cougar

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Posted 13 February 2009 - 03:37 PM

View PostStealthmaster14, on Feb 13 2009, 09:45 AM, said:

I'm afraid not :(   Your only option is to swap the spring out.  Our buy another gearbox and put a weaker spring in it so you can swap out the gearboxes.  (it would take like 4 minutes)

If you are low on cash, you could pick up an E1/JG gearbox and buy a new spring.  (or cut coils off the stock one)  That would cost about 60-70 bucks depending on where you get it and if you get a new spring.  (which I would suggest)  

With a reshim/regrease, E1/JGs will last a while, but obviously they are nowhere near the quality of KWA.

You can pick a JG G36C gearbox up from AirsoftGI for as little as 40.00. And mine chronoed at 330 FPS stock after the spring settled.

They are worth it too. Mine lasted 30,000 rounds without opening it up, and has lasted another 15,000 with an M110 spring and regrease. I only recently had the piston strip. That is the only part that has let me down.

#12 Stealthmaster14

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Posted 13 February 2009 - 10:10 PM

Complete JG gearbox (comes with motor) is $60, which comes out to $70 with shipping.  Motorless gearbox is $40, coming to a total of $50 shipped.  

Yeah, the parts are a lot stronger than people give them credit for.  The gears are very nice, it's just the piston assembly that's bad. (it's not BAD, but it isn't "good" lol)

#13 chris27

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Posted 05 March 2009 - 08:43 PM

thanks for the help with the flashider! I finally managed to get it off. BTW, 1.5mm is the allen wrench to use.

what would be a good new flashider for the G36c?

#14 thesmokingman

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Posted 06 March 2009 - 02:33 PM

View Postchris27, on Mar 5 2009, 11:43 PM, said:

thanks for the help with the flashider! I finally managed to get it off. BTW, 1.5mm is the allen wrench to use.

what would be a good new flashider for the G36c?

if you're looking for something that might actually be used on a real one, you might look at the Noveske Firepig/KFH/KX3, a DNTC compensator, or long G36 flashhider.

Obviously there are alot of rebar cutter, meat tenderizer, etc ones out there if you want to get funky. I'm curious to see what the XM177 flashhider would look like on there though




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