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KP Series Disassembly Guide


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#1 kempobmx1

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 06:36 PM

Disassembly Guide

1. Lock the slide in the backward position and remove the magazine from the gun.
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2. Look into the breech and check that there is not a round in the chamber. If there is, remove it by pushing a barrel clearing rod from the front of the barrel towards the back and push the bb out into the breech.

3. Locate the right side of the slide catch on the right side of the frame.
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4. Slowly let the slide forward until the slide catch notch on the slide aligns with the front of the slide catch.
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5. Push the slide catch from the right side of the frame and then pull it out from the left to remove it from the gun.
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6. Pull the slide off the front of the frame.
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7. Hold the slide upside-down. Push the spring guide assembly forward towards the front of the slide so it's free of the rear piece of the spring guide assembly (which is attached to the barrel). Pull the spring guide assembly up and out of the slide.
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8. Push the barrel forward towards the front of the slide and then pull it up and out of the slide the way you did with the spring guide assembly.
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9. Pull the hop-up unit, along with the inner barrel and rear section of the spring guide assembly, out of the outer barrel. Note that the rear section of the spring guide assembly can hinge downward.
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10. Using a 5/64" or 2mm allen/hex wrench, remove the screw from the underside of the blowback assembly.
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Edited by allizard, 19 January 2009 - 06:59 PM.


#2 Guest_allizard_*

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 06:59 PM

11a. Hold the slide right-side-up and, holding the front of the slide, tap the back of the slide against your palm. This will cause the back of the blowback assembly to drop down a few millimeters. You should be able to see a gap like the one in the picture that is marked by the allex/hex wrench being in it.

11b. Slide the rear sight off the back of the slide. Without completing step 11a you will not be able to do this.
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12. Again hold the slide upside-down. Take a flat head screwdriver and insert it into the small notch seen just below the screwdriver in the picture. Using the screw driver as a lever carefully bend the notch inward toward the center of the slide. At the same time, push up on the front of the blowback piston in order to make the front of the blowback assembly move upwards 1-2mm.
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13. Carefully insert the screwdriver through the ejection port and bring it to rest on the arm of the blowback assembly, directly below the aforementioned notch. Carefully push up until the blowback assembly comes loose from the slide. Pull the blowback assembly up and out of the slide.
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14. Note the part (actually comprised of two parts) that my index finger is resting against. Be careful not to lose these parts or the small spring that is sitting behind them, in the hole in the back of the assembly. Remove the two parts and spring from the blowback assembly before continuing and set them aside so as not to lose them.
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15a. Remove the two springs from the protruding pins holding them at the rear of the blowback assembly. Do this carefully so as not to damage the springs. There is a very small notch on the bottom of the pins that holds the springs on so you will need to carefully grab the main body of the spring and push it toward the pin then out away from the pin to remove it.

15b. Slide the blowback piston off the blowback assembly body to reveal the blowback chamber seal (the green seal).
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If the disassembly was done for regular maintenance, I recommend cleaning off then re-oiling the following parts:

    * The five rail guides on the frame (three on the left, two on the right) (If you don't know what this is look at the picture for step 6. It is the nub that is directly above the front of the safety lever)
    * The inside of the rails of the slide
    * The area right in front of the hammer and around the safety lever
    * The spring guide
    * The surface of the underside of the blowback assembly where you can see the paint has been scraped off due to contact
    * The the blowback chamber seal (green seal)
    * The inside of the arms of the blowback assembly body



Be sure to thoroughly clean these surfaces off before re-oiling or you will accumulate oxidized silicon oil over time and it will slow the gun's functions or potentially damage the gun.

#3 mitchellsliberty

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 10:53 AM

is this the ns2 gas system, or the regular?

#4 Wintersx866

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 03:13 PM

View Postmitchellsliberty, on 11 August 2009 - 10:53 AM, said:

is this the ns2 gas system, or the regular?
This one is the NS2 gas system but because bof misconseption, the NS2 gas delivery system acctually lies in the Magazine and not the gun itself.  You can tell the NS2 mag from the non NS2 mag by the height of the seal and top of the magazine (not the feeder) is higher than the old mag and looks more bulkier.

#5 Tsunka

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 12:07 AM

This is a link to a guide I recently made to disassemble the frame. I could think of a couple of reasons to disassemble the frame, I know a couple people who have non functioning safeties who would like them to work and there are a couple people with broken triggers and no idea how to replace em. and a bud of mine has one thats full of sand. Its not all that hard in fact it is a thing of beauty the way this all works, well designed and durable.

and if theres a warranty and you want it voided...this'll do it.
well....here ya go.
http://midwestairsof...3.msg108528#new

#6 seether254

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 12:57 PM

for anyone looking for a disassembly of the KWA KP45 Match heres a video i found on youtube.com that really helped me out.

Match disassembly

(thanks to veggiemann for the video)

Edited by seether254, 14 April 2010 - 12:58 PM.


#7 JohnMcDevitt

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Posted 29 November 2010 - 05:14 PM

What about the frame?

#8 maduhbee

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 11:24 AM

I think my screw from the BBU is over torqued, as I've now stripped the allen screw... I've been turning it counter clock wise to "remove the screw". I hope that's the right way. I used a 2mm allen key. Not even that can remove the screw perfectly.

#9 maduhbee

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 02:32 PM

Okay, here's an update: I've used a small butane powered soldering iron (that has a flame at the tip) and heated the thing up and I finally got it out with a torx!!! replaced with a phillips screw just perfectly. Goodness, allen screws are such a pain!




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