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Brand New Kmp9 Plagued With Problems...


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#1 apacifico3

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 08:40 PM

Well, I received my KMP9 (from Evike) on Friday March 18th. I probably put 6 magazines through it with propane/silicon oil and another 6 with green gas without any problems (I have 3 mags for it, and let each warm considerably before reloading and using it again) on Friday and Saturday. I had a BLAST shooting it; it was loud, hit hard and fast, and overly obnoxious to my neighbors  :clap:  I didn't touch it at all Sunday, and when I went to plink around with it today, I noticed a couple problems, which have now escalated into greater issues.
1. At first, the bolt wouldn't catch after finishing a mag. Never thought anything of it because it really didn't happen that often, maybe 1 of 4 mags didn't lock, and after another shot or two it would then lock or I'd notice it was out of ammo.
2. Today, well, Monday, I realized that sometimes it would not fire, at ALL. The first or second shot might fire, but it seems as if the bolt would not cycle completely forward, resulting in a hazardous situation. If I then shook the gun or tried pressing the bolt a bit forwards, the round that was chambered would be shot out unexpectedly. I took off the upper receiver to find the sharp bolt catch (like in Dobey's posts) and sanded a bit off the edges to reduce wear on the bolt and hopefully have my gun return to normal. This is not what happened. The bolt would still not cycle completely every shot; some shots were fine, but others were chamber and waiting for the bolt to move forward ever so slightly.
3. After trying to see why the bolt wouldn't cycle forward completely, I then replaced the receiver and checked if the mags would lock when empty. They did, but only if I pulled the charging handle back. If I would fire a single shot from the mag, the bolt would not always lock back. I put a full mag through the gun again, this time using green gas, yet the bolt did not lock after the last round was fired and that the bolt would not cycle completely. I opened the bolt, locked it, and will not touch the gun again, as I am afraid to do anything more devastating to the gun...

This being said, I am in desperate need of help. If anything, I submitted a ticket online for warranty/RMA number for return. I would ask for suggestions, but seeing as the nozzle is cracked, looks like I'm going to end up shelling out money for parts and repairs. :angry:

Edited by apacifico3, 22 March 2011 - 08:11 PM.


#2 Shmibly

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 01:40 PM

Yeah, my loading nozzle cracked too. I was told by KWA that the gun is meant only for green gas, not propane. So, propane is how I broke my gun. I do happen to know that propane does cycle harder and give a little more fps to the gun. Perhaps it is too much strain on the nozzle. I use propane in everything else though.  Best of luck with your repairs man!

#3 Aaronisthepimp

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 04:05 PM

View Postapacifico3, on 21 March 2011 - 08:40 PM, said:

Well, I received my KMP9 (from Evike) on Friday March 18th. I probably put 6 magazines through it with propane/silicon oil and another 6 with green gas without any problems (I have 3 mags for it, and let each warm considerably before reloading and using it again) on Friday and Saturday. I had a BLAST shooting it; it was loud, hit hard and fast, and overly obnoxious to my neighbors  :clap:  I didn't touch it at all Sunday, and when I went to plink around with it today, I noticed a couple problems, which have now escalated into greater issues.
1. At first, the bolt wouldn't catch after finishing a mag. Never thought anything of it because it really didn't happen that often, maybe 1 of 4 mags didn't lock, and after another shot or two it would then lock or I'd notice it was out of ammo.
2. Today, well, Monday, I realized that sometimes it would not fire, at ALL. The first or second shot might fire, but it seems as if the bolt would not cycle completely forward, resulting in a hazardous situation. If I then shook the gun or tried pressing the bolt a bit forwards, the round that was chambered would be shot out unexpectedly. I took off the upper receiver to find the sharp bolt catch (like in Dobey's posts) and sanded a bit off the edges to reduce wear on the bolt and hopefully have my gun return to normal. This is not what happened. The bolt would still not cycle completely every shot; some shots were fine, but others were chamber and waiting for the bolt to move forward ever so slightly.
3. After trying to see why the bolt wouldn't cycle forward completely, I then replaced the receiver and checked if the mags would lock when empty. They did, but only if I pulled the charging handle back. If I would fire a single shot from the mag, the bolt would not always lock back. I put a full mag through the gun again, this time using green gas, yet the bolt did not lock after the last round was fired and that the bolt would not cycle completely. I opened the bolt, locked it, and will not touch the gun again, as I am afraid to do anything more devastating to the gun...

This being said, I am in desperate need of help. If anything, I submitted a ticket online for warranty/RMA number for return. I would ask for suggestions, but seeing as the nozzle is cracked, looks like I'm going to end up shelling out money for parts and repairs. :angry:
If you recieved it on t he 18th of March don't you still have warranty?

#4 Guest_allizard_*

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:22 AM

Have you contacted the Help Desk yet?!

#5 apacifico3

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 10:31 PM

View Postallizard, on 31 March 2011 - 09:22 AM, said:

Have you contacted the Help Desk yet?!
Yeah. I got an RMA and sent it in. Just waiting to see what the diagnosis is and what could have happened... Dobey hasn't had any problems and he's running propane. I have no idea what could have happened... And the nozzle wasn't cracked, the lighting when the upper wasn't off just made it look like it was.

#6 Philbucknall

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 01:12 AM

Green gas IS propane with silicon oil and scent added it has been testes by Airsoft Innovations on a massspec machine so KWA are talking out of their behinds to say otherwise.

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 01:27 AM

View PostPhilbucknall, on 16 April 2011 - 01:12 AM, said:

Green gas IS propane with silicon oil and scent added it has been testes by Airsoft Innovations on a massspec machine so KWA are talking out of their behinds to say otherwise.

LOL....

You rather believe someone who wants to sell you a piece of adaptor then a manufacture who repaired gun after gun because of propane use?

Don't you even know Propane PSI is different than green gas?!!

#8 Guest_allizard_*

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 01:32 AM

View PostPhilbucknall, on 16 April 2011 - 01:12 AM, said:

Green gas IS propane with silicon oil and scent added it has been testes by Airsoft Innovations on a massspec machine so KWA are talking out of their behinds to say otherwise.

Similar property in chemical mixture but they are Definitely NOT the same.  Propane itself is odorless so I have some reservation of the type of additive that added to the mixture vs Green Gas.  Also, adding the wrong type of silicon oil can damage the gun.  Plus the proper ratios of silicon oil is relatively unknown.  How do you know you added too much or too little?!

#9 RexRocker AEG Dr

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 06:29 AM

Saw this and thought it was interesting.
From Propane101.com

HD-5 Propane

HD5 grade propane is "consumer grade" propane and is the most widely sold and distributed grade of propane in the U.S. market. HD5 is the highest grade propane available to consumers in the United States and is what propane companies ordinarily sell to their customers. What does HD5 propane mean in terms of specification to an ordinary consumer? It means that the propane is suitable and recommended for engine fuel use, which was the original purpose of the HD5 grade propane specification. HD5 spec propane consists of:

    * Minimum of 90% propane
    * Maximum of 5% propylene - propylene is used in the manufacture of plastics
    * Other gases constitute the remainder (iso-butane, butane, methane, etc.)

The HD5 specification is based on "allowable" contents. For instance, 99% propane and 1% propylene is HD5 grade propane the same as 95% propane and 5% propylene is HD5 propane. Although the product consistency and purity is different, both mixtures are considered HD5 propane because they fall within the allowable limits for the product to be named and labeled as such. Consider this: 10,000 gallons of pure propane (100% propane) is classified as HD-5 grade propane.
HD5 Propane Quality - Fact vs. Fiction

Retail propane companies that advertise "highest quality propane" are actually selling propane that conform to the specifications as required to be labeled and sold as HD5 propane. An important fact to note is that there is no higher grade than HD5 propane available for resale through retail propane companies in the United States...HD5 is the highest grade propane available to U.S. consumers. A company stating that their propane is of a higher grade than HD5 is inaccurate in their claim. As presented above, a tank holding pure propane contains what is classified as HD5 propane.
HD-10 Propane and Commercial Propane

HD10 propane is a grade below HD5 and is commonly found in California. HD10 grade propane allows up to 10% propylene in the propane/propylene mixture and is still labeled as "propane". Because propylene is used in creating plastics, HD10 can possibly create problems in some engines and vehicle applications. Propylene can cause engine components to "gum" or stick during operation. However, HD 10 spec propane works just fine in domestic and commercial propane powered appliances. The only problem that may be encountered in using HD-10 propane involves its use as an engine fuel (vehicles, forklifts, etc.).

#10 xKingSizex

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 01:13 PM

This is good information, especially for those of us in California. It's most likely the type used in the guns we find that are gunned up in our service center.
Basically this proves that there is no absolute in the content of propane. I know that the same rule applies for green gas, however the pressure and silicone content are the biggest factors.
Thanks for the post.

#11 YellowNinja

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 01:14 PM

IM using green gas right now (i know we were talking about propane) but ive been using these tips that i found off of youtube about a broken valve.

Im sure you can use propane and i accutally bought a propane adapter for my mp9.

I guess  you have to pull the bolt back and then load the magazine. Maybe thats why so many people are having problems but who knows, does KWA want to confirm this?

#12 apacifico3

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 08:29 PM

17 business days after kwa received my KMP9 and still nothing...  :( oh well...

#13 greatwatermelon

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 11:32 PM

Hang in there. She'll arrive back to you performing as well as she first did.  ^_^

#14 roguesqd

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 05:32 AM

Yes, in that video above...is this true?  Do you need to have the bolt back before placing the mag in?  There is no info on this in the manual

Edited by roguesqd, 21 April 2011 - 07:10 AM.


#15 Grimreefer

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 06:22 AM

There is a mention in the manual that you need to leave clearance at the top of the mag (ie not fillIng it completely full of bbs). I can only assume the reason is to avoid damage to the loading nozzle. Even if you do follow the manual and don't fill the mag completely, you'll notice that it is very difficult push the bbs down, so it may still be hard on the loading nozzle. To be safe, lock the bolt back before inserting the mag.

I have Accidently slammed a mag in with a closed bolt several times with no ill effect. Maybe the people with loading nozzle issues are not leaving the clearance needed at the top of the mag? Or maybe there's other factors like the type of bbs.

#16 gcw360

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 03:57 PM

View PostGrimreefer, on 21 April 2011 - 06:22 AM, said:

There is a mention in the manual that you need to leave clearance at the top of the mag (ie not fillIng it completely full of bbs). I can only assume the reason is to avoid damage to the loading nozzle. Even if you do follow the manual and don't fill the mag completely, you'll notice that it is very difficult push the bbs down, so it may still be hard on the loading nozzle. To be safe, lock the bolt back before inserting the mag.

I have Accidently slammed a mag in with a closed bolt several times with no ill effect. Maybe the people with loading nozzle issues are not leaving the clearance needed at the top of the mag? Or maybe there's other factors like the type of bbs.
The reason you leave clearance at the top of the mag is so that the follower will properly engage when released.  If you over fill the mag the follower will stay locked at the bottom and the BB's won't feed. :gun:

#17 Guest_allizard_*

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 10:42 AM

What they talked about on the video is WRONG.  The nozzle breakage is due to cold and dry weather added with not properly lubricating the internal.  There is NO need to pull the bolt before inserting the magazine.  Unless it's a M11.

#18 Grimreefer

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 11:05 AM

Thanks for the clarification, guys.

Do you mean that the nozzle breakage occurs during operation, and is not related to magazine insertion?

#19 gcw360

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 02:42 PM

View Postallizard, on 22 April 2011 - 10:42 AM, said:

What they talked about on the video is WRONG.  The nozzle breakage is due to cold and dry weather added with not properly lubricating the internal.  There is NO need to pull the bolt before inserting the magazine.  Unless it's a M11.
Does that hold true for the GBB pistols too - KP, MK, M9, etc?

#20 SR105

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 11:26 AM

I have a 1911 MKIV OD and the only problem I have with over filling the magazine is that the follower locks at the bottom again if I fill the magazine all the way to the top and won't feed into the gun lol. I've had that happen in the middle of a firefight before. Not cool. But nothing is broken. I have 5 magazines for my MKIV  :punk:




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