LiPo Battery Warning!!!
Posted 18 July 2011 - 04:46 PM
Posted 18 July 2011 - 04:53 PM
Posted 18 July 2011 - 05:39 PM
Edited by Eye Spel Gud, 18 July 2011 - 06:33 PM.
Posted 27 July 2011 - 08:07 AM
Posted 12 September 2011 - 05:38 PM
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:40 PM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 06:37 PM
We apologize for any inconvenience. However, the specific battery you may have read on the forums will cause the same wear and tear as the one ordered. There is a lot of mis conception of lipo batteries and over thinking how much wear and tear you are putting on the gun. Yes, you will wear out your internals faster but only because you are shooting at a faster rate. Imagine a gun which has a service period of 5000 BB’s. So with all the technical talk and reasonings out of the way, an 11.1v Lipo battery will reach that 5000 BB mark much quicker say versus an 8.4v battery. The wear and tear will be the same regardless of the voltage but you’ll be getting closer to that mark a lot quicker due to the higher rate of fire which leads to think a gun breaks down sooner than others.
Posted 08 December 2011 - 06:47 PM
For those that insist on using a high output battery I would recommend a MOSFET unit that will eliminate arcing of trigger contacts and protect against voltage spikes.
Posted 08 December 2011 - 07:08 PM
Posted 11 December 2011 - 06:45 PM
Posted 23 December 2011 - 11:13 AM
just wanted to give my insight on lipos. I have tried several differant things with my gun and have cracked open my gear box probably fifty times. Even field stripped my gear box on the field. Needless to say i can tear it down and assemble it pretty quick now. So i started out using a kong 11.1v 3s lipo nunchuck battery, but it didnt store enough juice for me and i just dont like nunchucks and It was only a 1600mah. I then went to a Turnigy 11.1v 2200mah 3s 20-30c. This battery is massive and gave me some issues ( you can view it hear on my youtube channel . first had to make a pouch to fit it on my stock. Second i was blowing fuses like crazy and had to run a 30A fuse. In return i burnt up the stock motor, it will really heat up your pistol grip. It was giving me almost 30 rounds a second on stock internals but at a cost. I then switched to a YKS 11.1v 1600mah 3s 15c. this battery runs good but again would like a larger mah. After all this i wore the crap out of my gear box and have rebuilt my complete gearbox three times now. Now i am using a Turnigy 7.4v lipo 2200mah 2s 20-30c and this battery seems just about right except i would like to find it with a 15c instead of the 20-30c.
If you dont know about lipos heres what i have learned the VOLTS in general is how fast your motor is going to run. The MAH in general is basically your gas tank, how much juice it can store. The 2s or 3s is number of cells or two gas tanks or three gas tanks. The C rating is the amount of punch its going to send to your motor. The higher the C rating the more punch your going to send to your motor especially if your running a mosfet. Hence the higher the C rating the more likely your going to blow fuses and overheat your motor. All these batteries i bought off ebay for under $20 a peice, i really like the Turnigies, their really good batteries. I get mine from a seller Lipos4less, fast shipping. I also use xt60 plugs on all my guns and chargers (superior plugs).
Posted 23 December 2011 - 11:38 AM
And the "C" rating is what your battery is capable of sending to your motor but your motor will only draw what it needs. So if you are blowing fuses and motor over heating with this battery, I would suspect there is some electrical issues with your gun or the batteries are bad or mislabeled.
Posted 24 December 2011 - 04:46 AM
Posted 24 December 2011 - 05:11 AM
Posted 24 December 2011 - 08:47 AM
Posted 24 December 2011 - 09:03 AM
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