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LiPo Battery Warning!!!


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#241 Eye Spel Gud

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 04:46 PM

If I get a battery with 15c continuous, with a 20-25c burst rate, will that be putting my kwa sr12 at risk because its over the recommended 15c?

#242 gcw360

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 04:53 PM

The 15C standard rating, not burst, is the number to be concerned about and you are in spec so long as your mAh do not exceed 1350.

#243 Eye Spel Gud

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 05:39 PM

How can kwa recommend 1600mAh with a 15c constant discharge rate and still stay under 18A, because 1.6*15=24A which is well over 18A?

View Postgcw360, on 18 July 2011 - 04:53 PM, said:

The 15C standard rating, not burst, is the number to be concerned about and you are in spec so long as your mAh do not exceed 1350.
and if the burst rate is higher ie. 25c that would make it 33.7 amps even with 1350mAh.

Edited by Eye Spel Gud, 18 July 2011 - 06:33 PM.


#244 jpw01

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Posted 27 July 2011 - 08:07 AM

Hi, I am getting ready to order a couple of the kong power batteries from the proshop, as shown on the video.  But from what I can understand they are 30 amp batteries (15C 2000mah), which exceed the 20 amp recommendation.  Will using that jeopardize my AEG?  Thanks!

#245 colazz

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 02:10 AM

http://store.airsoft...roducts_id=2995
Would this battery be good in my sr7
And can i change the t-type plug to a mini type plug?

#246 KWAnOOb

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 05:38 PM

anyone able to run a 11.1 25c lipo with upgrades, mosfet?

#247 airwebber

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:40 PM

Looks like I screwed up and ordered a "Fierce Bull 11.1V 20C 2400mAh High Performance Airsoft Li-Poly Battery Pack" along with Evike Custom KWA M16 SPR Full Metal for my son. I had called Evike and they told me the above battery would work fine with the new gun. Guess I have to return it when it arrives Monday and get the right battery.

#248 airwebber

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 06:37 PM

So I wrote Evike about the above battery and this was the response:

We apologize for any inconvenience. However, the specific battery you may have read on the forums will cause the same wear and tear as the one ordered. There is a lot of mis conception of lipo batteries and over thinking how much wear and tear you are putting on the gun. Yes, you will wear out your internals faster but only because you are shooting at a faster rate. Imagine a gun which has a service period of 5000 BB’s.  So with all the technical talk and reasonings out of the way, an 11.1v Lipo battery will reach that 5000 BB mark much quicker say versus an 8.4v battery. The wear and tear will be the same regardless of the voltage but you’ll be getting closer to that mark a lot quicker due to the higher rate of fire which leads to think a gun breaks down sooner than others.

#249 niko_gpsy

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 06:47 PM

It's not just about the wear and tear on the gears and other internal components.  A higher output battery can lead to motor damage and trigger contact burn out.  They are not incorrect in what they said but did leave some facts out I think.  And yes there are arguments that a motor will only draw what it needs to operate but a voltage spike from a higher output battery can cause severe damage to your electrical system more so than a battery that is within spec.  
For those that insist on using a high output battery I would recommend a MOSFET unit that will eliminate arcing of trigger contacts and protect against voltage spikes.

#250 gcw360

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 07:08 PM

In addition to what Niko wrote, which i happen to agree with 100%, anytime you add stress to a mechanical system, in this case the guns drive train, you increase the likelihood of wear and failure.  Increased voltage, from a LiPo or any other battery, causes increased stress due to the fact that the gun in starting up faster and running fasted.  It's rather unfortunate that Evike only gave you part of the equation. This is true of any gun KWA or otherwise.  In the end, your KWA AEG is perfectly suited to run LiPo, Lion, or any other lithium based battery available for an AEG.

#251 Alan

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:08 PM

what brand lipo batteries do u guys recommend??

#252 JReeeVe

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 06:45 PM

View PostAlan, on 08 December 2011 - 08:08 PM, said:

what brand lipo batteries do u guys recommend??
They carry them now, check the accessories section. I am sure those are reccommended, since they carry em.

#253 airsoft3r

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 04:14 PM

Would this http://www.airsoftgi...roducts_id=5220 fit in the crane stock of a km4 ris?thanks

#254 niko_gpsy

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 04:31 PM

No that won't fit in the crane stock.

#255 serpent

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 11:13 AM

Hey everyone,

just wanted to give my insight on lipos.   I have tried several differant things with my gun and have cracked open my gear box probably fifty times. Even field stripped my gear box on the field. Needless to say i can tear it down and assemble it pretty quick now.   So i started out using a kong 11.1v 3s lipo nunchuck battery, but it didnt store enough juice for me and i just dont like nunchucks and It was only a 1600mah. I then went to a Turnigy 11.1v 2200mah 3s 20-30c. This battery is massive and gave me some issues ( you can view it hear on my youtube channel . first had to make a pouch to fit it on my stock. Second i was blowing fuses like crazy and had to run a 30A fuse. In return i burnt up the stock motor, it will really heat up your pistol grip.  It was giving me almost 30 rounds a second on stock internals but at a cost. I then switched to a YKS 11.1v 1600mah 3s 15c. this battery runs good but again would like a larger mah. After all this i wore the crap out of my gear box and have rebuilt my complete gearbox three times now.  Now i am using a Turnigy 7.4v lipo 2200mah 2s 20-30c and this battery seems just about right except i would like to find it with a 15c instead of the 20-30c.  

If you dont know about lipos heres what i have learned  the VOLTS in general is how fast your motor is going to run. The MAH in general is basically your gas tank, how much juice it can store. The 2s or 3s is number of cells or two gas tanks or three gas tanks. The C rating is the amount of punch its going to send to your motor. The higher the C rating the more punch your going to send to your motor especially if your running a mosfet. Hence the higher the C rating the more likely your going to blow fuses and overheat your motor.  All these batteries i bought off ebay for under $20 a peice, i really like the Turnigies, their really good batteries. I get mine from a seller Lipos4less, fast shipping.  I also use xt60 plugs on all my guns and chargers (superior plugs).

Serpent.

#256 niko_gpsy

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 11:38 AM

I have been running a 11.1v 30C 2200mah battery with a 20A fuse and never blew a fuse. I do have my custom MOSFET with AB installed but never experienced the fuse and motor heat problem you have described.
And the "C" rating is what your battery is capable of sending to your motor but your motor will only draw what it needs. So if you are blowing fuses and motor over heating with this battery, I would suspect there is some electrical issues with your gun or the batteries are bad or mislabeled.

#257 serpent

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 04:46 AM

Well at the time I was having the overheating issue I was running some monster gauge wire ( had to modify the pistol grip to get it to fit), think it was like 14 gauge wire.  I was also using a aftermarket motor with a infected armory ab mosfet. I have since went back to a smaller gauge wire and a  different motor and its not getting as hot anymore with the same batteries. Plus I tend to be trigger heavy on full auto for cover fire.

#258 niko_gpsy

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 05:11 AM

I could be wrong but it is my understanding that one would use a heavier gauge wire to reduce heat that may result from a higher output battery. So it's a little weird to me that your heat issue became worse with a thicker wire unless there was increased resistance somewhere in the system due to either a stripped wire or bad contacts. Not arguing with you. Just my .02 cents.

#259 serpent

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 08:47 AM

thats what i think and you could be right about the battery. Were kinda getting off subject for this thread here, so if you can move this post to the appropriate thred i would like to continue this conversation in detail. I installed the monster gauge at the same time i installed the Mosfet i got and thats when i really started haveing the overheating issue. I was already running the 11.1v Tunigy battery prior to installing the mosfet with no issues, wich is whats confusing me. I contacted Infected Armory and they gave me the procedure to test my mosfet with a multi meter and it check out fine according to them. Then during a game at Fort Riley (Operation Phoenix). I had a piston break on me and burnt up one of the monster gauge wires were it was rubbing on the motor shaft. Those wires were a pain to get into the gear box. So i took that harness out and threw the stock back in without the mosfet and the overheating quit. I knew that those wires were probably going to become a issue being that close to the motor but before the motor even had time to wear threw the wire i was still getting the overheating issue. Attached File  gearbox resized.bmp   113.61K   4 downloads

#260 niko_gpsy

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 09:03 AM

Did you know a MOSFET can still function and give normal readings but it can build resistance if it shorts and over heat a system thus sometimes leading to a meltdown? I have used infected armory MOSFETs before too but their back-to-back design and non-insulated solder joints lead to a short. That is why I started making my own. I have burnt 4 of their MOSFETs. Sam is a good guy and makes decent products but I think there are room for improvements in his design.




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