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Allizard I need your help


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#1 Hitman07

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 08:31 PM

Hey guys I got a simple question. What does Part 35 and 37 do on the MP7? One of the part 35 things...screw or w.e it is fell out and the part 37 screw keeps unscrewing and jamming up the MP7 when I fire it. Even when I tigheten it up it still loosens and I just played with it without those parts and it worked great...So I just want to make sure and see if those parts are even needed because the gun works great and shoots great without them and everytime I put that screw in it just loosens up and jams the bolt and I have to remove the bolt from the gun to take it out...

Thanks for responses (This is my only airsoft gun now so I really just want it to last at least another 2 years without having to fix it. I only play about once a month now)

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Edited by Hitman07, 16 April 2010 - 08:35 PM.


#2 tiger

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Posted 17 April 2010 - 06:10 AM

part no.35 are screws to fasten no.34 which in turn pulls back part no.23 to reload the next round or stops part no.23 from popping out and stretching your springs(part no. 24) too much, enough to damage them. Although this will happen only during field stripping.
Part no 37 is important because it fastens part no. 30 to 33 to your blowback housing(part no.36). part no. 30 to 33 are your o-ring assembly with no.31 being your o-ring(or piston cup). These are very important because they are responsible for your guns blowback action. No.37 on my gun unscrewed before and it stopped firing after the 2nd round. Just put thread lock on them.

#3 Hitman07

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Posted 17 April 2010 - 12:37 PM

View Posttiger, on 17 April 2010 - 06:10 AM, said:

part no.35 are screws to fasten no.34 which in turn pulls back part no.23 to reload the next round or stops part no.23 from popping out and stretching your springs(part no. 24) too much, enough to damage them. Although this will happen only during field stripping.
Part no 37 is important because it fastens part no. 30 to 33 to your blowback housing(part no.36). part no. 30 to 33 are your o-ring assembly with no.31 being your o-ring(or piston cup). These are very important because they are responsible for your guns blowback action. No.37 on my gun unscrewed before and it stopped firing after the 2nd round. Just put thread lock on them.

I put 250 rounds through it full auto stress without those two parts in and it worked great. Is it even "really" needed if it was important my gun would have messed up without it when I was firing it I went through 6 mags full auto no stop and it shot every round out and worked great. As far as part 35 goes it looks like it sheared off or something and I think I lost it because I cant find it in the case I put it in. How much does a bolt for the MP7 cost anyway? Isnt that HV Kit for the MP7 coming out? I would expect it to just be a whole bolt that you just interchange with the stock one. I will try to find 35 again but if its not in the case (its small(screw)) than I lost it but I can put 37 back in...what will I need to make it hold because I tightened it up like really tight and it loosened out in like 40 rounds.

Edited by Hitman07, 17 April 2010 - 12:42 PM.


#4 tiger

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 05:36 AM

You can let go of 35 and 34 but not 37. Just put a thread lock on it.

#5 Hitman07

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 10:42 AM

View Posttiger, on 19 April 2010 - 05:36 AM, said:

You can let go of 35 and 34 but not 37. Just put a thread lock on it.

Alright where can I buy a thread lock?

#6 Spiggy

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 10:46 AM

I'd keep 33/34, the stroke on the MP7 isn't short.  It's cheaper to replace the little block and screws than it is to replace the entire cylinder.

#7 Hitman07

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 04:13 PM

View PostSpiggy, on 19 April 2010 - 10:46 AM, said:

I'd keep 33/34, the stroke on the MP7 isn't short.  It's cheaper to replace the little block and screws than it is to replace the entire cylinder.

What about the back screw do I even really need that because if it was important the gun wouldnt have worked? I shot 300 rounds through it without it. If I need it to stay in what do I get to make it stay in it keeps unscrewing even when I tighten it up really tight by hand.

#8 Spiggy

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 04:34 PM

without the aforementioned parts, you'll only lead to tearing your bolt apart.

#9 Hitman07

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 04:40 PM

View PostSpiggy, on 19 April 2010 - 04:34 PM, said:

without the aforementioned parts, you'll only lead to tearing your bolt apart.

how do i fix it? i recently sent it in to get fixed for the hop up bucking issue so i rather fix it myself if i can

#10 tiger

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 08:26 PM

Well you can buy any threadlock in almost any auto parts store or RC modelling shop. Use sparingly. Locktite is a good brand and also the TAMIYA threadlock. You're just luck your gun is still working, probably the parts without the screwa are jammed up pretty tight but it will eventually loosen up also. If part 35 is missing or shredded the head, then you have no recourse but to buy a replacement.

#11 Hitman07

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 10:15 PM

What type should I get? Blue, Purple, Green or Red? Also part 35 it looks like a bit of it sheared off but only the top and the rest is still in there. So I think its fine. Not much I can do for that anyway unless I put some loctight on it just so it can be back on the bolt. I noticed part 37 held 32-30 and without it the 32-30 slides into the cylinder. I will try to find some loctight tomorrow for part 37. Thanks for help.

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So on part 37 when i get the loctight (color?) I just lightly put it on the bolt and screw it in handtight?
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One of part 35 has sheared off but the thread part of w.e is still in the bolt..just the top came off...not much I can do there...should I use loctight to put it back on the bolt?
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Edited by Hitman07, 19 April 2010 - 10:18 PM.


#12 Spiggy

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 10:31 AM

call in, ask for parts.

#13 Hitman07

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 11:12 AM

View PostSpiggy, on 20 April 2010 - 10:31 AM, said:

call in, ask for parts.

?All I need is for that screw to stop vibrating out. Allizard told me to get some loctite. Red is too much but blue is just right and prevents the vibrating. I will put a small layer on the edge close to the head just so it holds in. part 35 is still in the bolt just the head of it came off. Hopefully that is all it is...dont want to have to send this in again.

#14 Hitman07

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 06:03 PM

I got some Blue Loctite today...spiggy..tiger...how should I proceed with this? get a small layer on the finger and wipe around the thread close to the head of the bolt and screw in and let cure for 24 hours? What about part 35 should I put a small drip in there and then put the sheared head back on?

#15 Spiggy

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 10:56 AM

clean the surface you're trying to adhere to (screw and hole).  Rubbing alcohol on a q-tip will do nicely

Then lightly dab the screw you're trying to fix and apply the parts together.

#16 Hitman07

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Posted 22 April 2010 - 08:20 PM

View PostSpiggy, on 21 April 2010 - 10:56 AM, said:

clean the surface you're trying to adhere to (screw and hole).  Rubbing alcohol on a q-tip will do nicely

Then lightly dab the screw you're trying to fix and apply the parts together.

Done. Cleaned surface with alcohol and put loctite around the screw screwed it in and put a dab on top of the head. Will try it out Friday night and see how it goes.

#17 Hitman07

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Posted 22 April 2010 - 08:36 PM

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#18 Spiggy

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 10:48 AM

You realize loctite goes on the threads, not the heads...

#19 Hitman07

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Posted 28 April 2010 - 12:08 PM

View PostSpiggy, on 23 April 2010 - 10:48 AM, said:

You realize loctite goes on the threads, not the heads...

Yea I put it on the threads most of the loctite that is on the head came from some of the loctite on the threads being pushed out when tighten

#20 Paisley Pirate

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Posted 28 April 2010 - 06:29 PM

A very small amount of loctite is all you ever want to use... too much is just a waste, and can actually cause it to not hold as tightly as it could (this is not all bad in airsoft)

As a suggestion, personally, in MOST instances in airsoft parts that will have to be disassembled again some day, I use fingernail polish, and let it dry thoroughly.  It has less grip than blue loctite, but again, that can be good in airsoft. It will also bond with plastic parts, so it can be used there as well.

Haven't had this particular part work loose on mine (nor any other problem, truth told) but will keep an eye on it just in case.




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