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#1 catfish787

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 02:00 PM

I now own both a KWA 1911 PTP and a KP45. I had a question on how to lubricate the slide grooves and other parts of the gun. Currently, I am just using different weights of 100% silicon oil that work well with the slides (about 60wt. for these parts). I also saw that you may be able to use lithium grease. I was wondering if this is bad for it, or it would be better than liquid silicon grease. I would like to keep my gun going good and strong and don't want to mess up oiling it or anything. If you could let me know any more tips in addition to these or give me the links to similar pistol lubrication on your forums, I would appreciate it. Thank you.

#2 btieleman

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 09:24 PM

My admittedly limited experience with a new M226 PTP thus far suggests that the use of any high viscosity silicone lubricant (e.g. that which ships with the new weapon) gums up the slide rails to the point where proper cycling becomes an issue.  I'm sorry that I don't know the exact viscosity.  Perhaps this circumstance is peculiar to my M226, but re-cleaning the slide and frame rails, and applying a light coat of very low viscosity spray lube worked exceptionally well.  Note that a good bit of what seemed like excess paint/finish was removed from the groves when cleaning, so that may also be a factor.  

It cycles like a champ now.  The heavier lube (judiciously applied) seems fine for the trigger/hammer mechanisms, the magazine follower, and etcs.  However, I'm simply sticking with the silicone spray for both cleaning and lubricating purposes.  It's great for both, and anything petroleum based is perhaps detrimental to the plastic parts.

I've read elsewhere that some feel the propellant in some spray silicone lubes may be somehow detrimental to hop-ups or other parts, but I have not found this to be the case with any other gear.  Too soon to comment regarding the new M226.  I hope this helps.  Best of luck.

#3 Spiggy

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 11:02 PM

Keep dust off the gun, the slide rails dry, the silicone(the rubber-like bits) parts oiled, and grease out of your mechanism.  

That's all you really need.

#4 Hitman07

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 11:38 PM

If you guys want I will make a video of how to clean it on my youtube. Already did on on the MP7

#5 catfish787

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 02:25 PM

A video would be great and much appreciated Hitman. SPiggy, I thought you keep the slide rails oiled, not dry. All the instructional videos and writings I have found have said to oil that after each game, after cleaning the old oil off. Maybe your right, but so far, I have heard nothing about keeping it dry.

Edited by catfish787, 21 January 2010 - 02:25 PM.


#6 Hitman07

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 05:12 PM

 catfish787, on 21 January 2010 - 02:25 PM, said:

A video would be great and much appreciated Hitman. SPiggy, I thought you keep the slide rails oiled, not dry. All the instructional videos and writings I have found have said to oil that after each game, after cleaning the old oil off. Maybe your right, but so far, I have heard nothing about keeping it dry.

I will make one soon. Also its not good to keep it lubed up. (Ex) Dont spray oil on it and then store it. Its good to lube the gun and then clean it down with a damp cloth and then store it.

youtube.com/danph77

Check out the MP7 video it will help alot

#7 gcw360

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 08:08 PM

 catfish787, on 21 January 2010 - 02:25 PM, said:

A video would be great and much appreciated Hitman. SPiggy, I thought you keep the slide rails oiled, not dry. All the instructional videos and writings I have found have said to oil that after each game, after cleaning the old oil off. Maybe your right, but so far, I have heard nothing about keeping it dry.
Spiggy is the KWA resident tech, rock star, extraordinaire. If he says keep the rails dry, then keep them dry. Really.:gun:

#8 jotohomomoto

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Posted 25 January 2010 - 04:52 PM

wow, keeping the slide rails dry is news to me!!!

#9 Guest_allizard_*

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 12:21 AM

because most people tends to over-lub his gun.  This actually creates more problem.

#10 jotohomomoto

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 07:53 AM

 allizard, on 26 January 2010 - 12:21 AM, said:

because most people tends to over-lub his gun.  This actually creates more problem.
:lol: hahaa, yeah, I tend to be very liberal with my application of lube!! I finally got some spray lube that is made from UTG and I beilive that would enable me to scale back the lube a little bit!

#11 tiki2777

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 10:50 PM

 allizard, on 26 January 2010 - 12:21 AM, said:

because most people tends to over-lub his gun.  This actually creates more problem.
I know most people say over-lubing guns make them even worse, but the m226s come bone dry to the point where the muzzle loader (pretty sure that's the correct term) sticks to the outer barrel when you rack the slide (which is really hard to do anyway w/ dry rails)
imo, slightly overlubing isn't bad and just leaks out a tiny bit anyway to make the lube more even which you can wipe with a cloth

hopefully that makes sense. All of my knowledge is just from tons of experience with gbb pistols (still holding KWA as the best as far as overall internals and build quality despite my odd experiencr w/ the sights)

Edited by tiki2777, 27 January 2010 - 10:52 PM.


#12 Hitman07

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 12:01 AM

 tiki2777, on 27 January 2010 - 10:50 PM, said:

I know most people say over-lubing guns make them even worse, but the m226s come bone dry to the point where the muzzle loader (pretty sure that's the correct term) sticks to the outer barrel when you rack the slide (which is really hard to do anyway w/ dry rails)
imo, slightly overlubing isn't bad and just leaks out a tiny bit anyway to make the lube more even which you can wipe with a cloth

hopefully that makes sense. All of my knowledge is just from tons of experience with gbb pistols (still holding KWA as the best as far as overall internals and build quality despite my odd experiencr w/ the sights)

yea ur right 226 was underlubed it had tons of problems when i first got it with no cycling right and everything. it works alot better now though

#13 jotohomomoto

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 12:16 PM

 Hitman07, on 28 January 2010 - 12:01 AM, said:

yea ur right 226 was underlubed it had tons of problems when i first got it with no cycling right and everything. it works alot better now though

Yeah, my 226 was having all kinds of sticking problems out of the box. When I put a loaded magazine in the gun, the gas started to shoot out without pulling the trigger!! A spray of lube here, a drop of lube there and voila!!! Perfect cycling! :thumbsup:

#14 RoadBlock

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 04:59 PM

 jotohomomoto, on 28 January 2010 - 12:16 PM, said:

Yeah, my 226 was having all kinds of sticking problems out of the box. When I put a loaded magazine in the gun, the gas started to shoot out without pulling the trigger!! A spray of lube here, a drop of lube there and voila!!! Perfect cycling! :thumbsup:

I just got a P/M226 lastnight and the rails were greased and it didn't cycle very smoothly at all. I figure being new and such no big deal but I did clean off the grease looking stuff and just oiled it up with some light R/C car shock oil I had laying around and it runs smooth as silk now. I've got 4 mags threw it, the last two are were like so smooth!

#15 Spiggy

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 04:42 PM

 jotohomomoto, on 26 January 2010 - 07:53 AM, said:

:lol: hahaa, yeah, I tend to be very liberal with my application of lube!! I finally got some spray lube that is made from UTG and I beilive that would enable me to scale back the lube a little bit!
if it's in an aerosol canister, you may want to look at another lubricant.

#16 Hitman07

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 05:06 PM

 Spiggy, on 03 February 2010 - 04:42 PM, said:

if it's in an aerosol canister, you may want to look at another lubricant.

Spiggy I was using ICS Aerosol can so I think it screwed my MP7 up.....how much will it cost total to send this in you think?

My KWA P226 works perfectly though. It has to be the ICS Aerosol


I am throwing that stuff away... LOL

#17 jotohomomoto

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 05:58 PM

 Spiggy, on 03 February 2010 - 04:42 PM, said:

if it's in an aerosol canister, you may want to look at another lubricant.

Uggghh, I was afraid you might say that. The lube is specifically "airsoft silicone lubricant" by the airsoft company Under The Gun (UTG) and I assumed it would be safe. I understand that petroleum distallates can deteriorate 0-rings and such but I thought that if UTG made it and the hobbby shop endorsed it, the lube was legit. So no spray/aerosol silicone lube (airsoft specific or not) should be used on GAS guns?
Another thing, should one lubricate the barrel?

#18 Hitman07

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 06:02 PM

I can answer that joto. The answer is no because oil grabs dust and dust collects in barrel and you get decreased accuracy. Keep barrel as dry as possible

#19 Spiggy

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Posted 06 February 2010 - 08:33 PM

 jotohomomoto, on 03 February 2010 - 05:58 PM, said:

Uggghh, I was afraid you might say that. The lube is specifically "airsoft silicone lubricant" by the airsoft company Under The Gun (UTG) and I assumed it would be safe. I understand that petroleum distallates can deteriorate 0-rings and such but I thought that if UTG made it and the hobbby shop endorsed it, the lube was legit. So no spray/aerosol silicone lube (airsoft specific or not) should be used on GAS guns?
Another thing, should one lubricate the barrel?
There's a reason why we include the bottle of shock oil with our guns.  Storage for shipping and transit can dry out the silicone and urethane parts easily.

Until someone can produce a spray and prove that it's silicone and urethane safe, I would say avoid it.   Unfortunately in this day and age, there are many sales persons posing as techs, and "techs" that should not be near tools.  There are some unscrupulous characters out there folks.  Be safe.

Barrels should be dry unless you're storing the gun long term.

#20 MP7dad

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 06:27 PM

 gcw360, on 21 January 2010 - 08:08 PM, said:

Spiggy is the KWA resident tech, rock star, extraordinaire. If he says keep the rails dry, then keep them dry. Really.:gun:

Along the spirit of Spiggy's recommendation and some of the other post in this or other treads, here's what I did to my KP45 after disassembling and cleaning it thoroughly.

1) I noted where all the finish had been worn which indicated points of contact/friction between moving parts
2) Starting on these points I started by hand polishing using Flitz (sold for polishing and protecting real steel but still safe on plastics and provides corrosion protection). There was an improvement in the "feel" of the surface polished, i.e. it felt smoother. However, the hand polishing was pretty laborious and wasn't smoothing out some of the imperfections I was coming across on the inside of the slide so I decided to break out my trusty Dremel with felt polishing tip.
WARNING - SEE RULES REGARDING UPGRADES AND MODIFICATIONS IN SUBFORUM OF SAME NAME- USE A DREMEL AT YOUR OWN RISK
3) I proceeded to polish with the dremel and Flitz all interior surfaces of the slide I could reasonably get to. A couple places I had to swith to a 320 grit finish plastic wheel where I needed a little more removed and then finished with felt with Flitz.

Now, although I wouldn't call the finish of the slide rough to begin with, it wasn't by any means smooth, this became extremely evident as I completed the first area and compared it to the original finish.

4) I also polished all of the areas of the frame that makes physical contact with the slide.

Sorry, family just got home, time to serve up dinner, I'll come back and edit post later...

5) I also polished the spring guide some, difficult to do as I couldn't get the snap ring of easily and didn't have time to really mess with but even the little I did by compressing the spring and polishing the spring guide was noticeable. Ultimately, if I could get it disassembled, it would go in a lathe for polishing.

All that said and done, I haven't had a chance to shot it outside in the cold to see if it operates a little better, my initial goal, but I believe the gun will be easier to clean and protect using the Flitz by end in the future maintaining the smoothness I got from using the dremel. In either case, at least I know the KP45 got some much needed TLC...

I was considering using some Moly based dry lube that I was buying for a Sig Mosq. on the KP45's slide but I don't think that will be necessary. I do agree with Spiggy that a lubricant (at least an oil based one is not needed for the slide).

I'll come back and make some additional comments after I've used it some and done a couple more teardowns and maintenance cleaning and polishing of the KP45....

Edited by MP7dad, 11 February 2010 - 05:49 PM.





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