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KWA G36C accuracy issues


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#41 dsdehan

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Posted 19 September 2010 - 12:53 PM

what is a good lipo 11.1v that is approved by KWA?

Thanks

#42 gcw360

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Posted 19 September 2010 - 05:14 PM

View Postallizard, on 19 September 2010 - 12:39 PM, said:

It's a bit more complicated than just voltage.  

Discharge rate have something to do with it as well.

That's why I'm eating popcorn...:popcorn:.  I'm waiting for the fireworks from my response.

#43 gcw360

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Posted 19 September 2010 - 05:17 PM

View Postdsdehan, on 19 September 2010 - 12:53 PM, said:

what is a good lipo 11.1v that is approved by KWA?

Thanks

Here are three that are within spec: http://www.kwausa.co...582

I do not know if they will fit in the G36C but you can use the specs as a guide.  I would visit the KWA Pro Shop and review the battery section for more ideas. :gun:

#44 dsdehan

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 05:51 PM

does anyone know what type of cylinder is in the g36c? ex. type 1

#45 Guest_allizard_*

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 10:00 AM

It's currently a Type 1 cylinder.

#46 dsdehan

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 02:02 PM

View Postallizard, on 04 October 2010 - 10:00 AM, said:

It's currently a Type 1 cylinder.
thank you, man ffinally someone who gave me a simple answer. so that means i can put a 363mm barrel in there no problem?

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 03:25 PM

View Postdsdehan, on 04 October 2010 - 02:02 PM, said:

thank you, man ffinally someone who gave me a simple answer. so that means i can put a 363mm barrel in there no problem?

No problem at all.  Type 1 cylinder can handle maximum 509mm.  Then again, 363mm and type 1 cylinder is standard on the a TM setup.

#48 dsdehan

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 01:48 PM

On the g36 timing issue, if you only use a 15c battery with 21 amps, will you be okay?

Edited by dsdehan, 11 November 2010 - 08:29 PM.


#49 rabbitdave

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Posted 30 December 2010 - 06:18 AM

View Postdsdehan, on 05 November 2010 - 01:48 PM, said:

On the g36 timing issue, if you only use a 15c battery with 21 amps, will you be okay?

Check out this thread to get info about timing http://www.kwausa.co...?showtopic=4254

Then here is a long post to get back to the accuracy issues. I have good accuracy with my G36, but anything beyond 120 feet is a crap shoot. I use to think that this was a TBB and length of the barrel issue. After reading a lot on what Snipers are doing to make 300 ft monsters, I am dead set it is a crappy hop up, air nozzle/cylinder head, inconsistent FPS and barrel stability in the G that is the downfall of the accuracy.
First…there are a lot misunderstanding on barrel length and accuracy. The only function of a barrel is to get the BB moving in a direction up to the maximum speed based on volume. The smoother the barrel and more consistency in the air flow down the barrel the more consistent the BB will travel. Tight bores work because it makes the bounce down the barrel in a tighter “wave” and it maximizes the use of air to push the BB.
In the G36 with its 247mm barrel may be better served to increase the diameter of the barrel or decrease the volume of air in the cyclder to decrease extra air. Typically you want a 1.6-1.9 ratio of barrel volume to cylinder volume for good accuracy.
Second…the hop up and nub must have a lot of play in it causing an inconsistency how the bb is spinning. When the BB is not spinning around a parallel axis to the ground, it will create lift other than straight up and will go in the direction of the lift. That is why you can curve BBs around corners by turning you gun on it’s side (try it out).
In the G36, this can be corrected by stabilizing the hop up arm and creating a nub that will put a  consistent spin axis. Shimming the arm and changing the shape of the nub to a rounded ‘m’ should help.
Third…air nozzle/cylinder head is creating a “dirty” air stream and is causing the BB to bounce down the barrel. By changing them to a vortex style to allow smoother airflow should decrease bounce and increase accuracy.  Then if you could add some rubber/padding to the cylinder head to help quite the gun/ and reduce shock to the front of the mech box would a great bonus.
Fourth…inconsistent FPS is causing different amounts of spin to the BB and different joules which cause the BB to travel different trajectories and decrease accuracy. In the G36 this could be fixed with timing the piston, cut the second tool and improving the quality of the spring, adding bearings  so the spring does not bind, and decrease the strength (change from an m120 to m110). An added benefit  would be to add a sleeve to the spring so it will not rattle in the cylinder when it decompresses and would quite down the mech box.
Fifth…barrel is not stable and can misalign with the hop up and the barrel can move around too much in outer barrel.  This will cause the BB to bounce down the barrel. In the G36 this could be fixed by taping the barrel to the hop up and adding tape to the barrel to make it snugly fit in the outer barrel.
Finally, if you do all of this, you will have a drop in the FPS with the larger barrel or smaller cylinder, lighter spring. To fix this, you should tie your hand tie on the hop up rubber to the barrel to decrease air loss and increase FPS.

All of these are simple fixes should increase the consistency of the G36, and make it accurate out to the limits of 6mm BB’s.
The current G36 is really in a strange position. It shoot too hot for most CQB areas, but does not have the accuracy to compete with the KWA’s M4’s on the open field. If you try to increase the ROF, you reach a timing issue and have to retime your G to make it work well at the higher FPS.  So you are left with a really well made G36 that does do anything well but doesn’t do anything poorly either. I would hope that KWA would make two G36. A C that would be tuned to CQB and a E or K  tuned to 400 FPS and better accuracy.
Well enough said. I will post in the future as I tune my G36 based on the information above and let everyone know how it works out.

#50 claudiomda

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Posted 23 August 2011 - 02:06 PM

Hey guys. I know this is an old post, but I just got a G36C brand new and I'm having the same issue. I know it seems as if the battery may have something to do with the issue but I have a couple of questions.
What is the stock spring that comes with the G36C?
What type of cylinder?

I also have a KWA M4 and using the same exact battery (11.1V 1600mAh) I dont have that problem, but I DO have a stronger spring on it and a ventilated piston head. So, do you guys think it may have to do with that? (more than anything with the motor clying the less stronger spring so fast that is having a vacum efect since the piston head is not vent?

Thanks

#51 niko_gpsy

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Posted 23 August 2011 - 02:29 PM

View Postclaudiomda, on 23 August 2011 - 02:06 PM, said:

Hey guys. I know this is an old post, but I just got a G36C brand new and I'm having the same issue. I know it seems as if the battery may have something to do with the issue but I have a couple of questions.
What is the stock spring that comes with the G36C?
What type of cylinder?

I also have a KWA M4 and using the same exact battery (11.1V 1600mAh) I dont have that problem, but I DO have a stronger spring on it and a ventilated piston head. So, do you guys think it may have to do with that? (more than anything with the motor clying the less stronger spring so fast that is having a vacum efect since the piston head is not vent?

Thanks
You should start a new topic.   ;)




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