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Slide Removal Problem


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#1 jcleland

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 12:48 AM

First of all, I've read other threads regarding similar problems. My spring guide is straight, etc. This is not what's going on. I've managed to remove the slide once by using a small screwdriver and, through the back of the slide, pressing down on the nub of the trigger transfer bar (part 43). This suggests to me that the auto select cam bar (part 31) is either a) not in the correct position or B) not applying enough force to relocate the trigger transfer bar out of the way.

Either way, this is just a guess. Like an idiot, I applied a small amount of lubrication, looked everything over and re-installed the slide. Now, I can't remove it again, I haven't had any luck poking at it with a screwdriver as I did before, so I'm stuck (so to speak). any ideas?

Thanks!
James

#2 jcleland

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 04:28 AM

I think I may have figured out what's causing this problem, but I'm still short on solutions. The hammer appears to be catching on the breach block. If you've looked at your breach block, you know that its tapered in such a way that seems to encourage slide removal by pushing the hammer down and out of the way when you push the slide forward. For some reason, this has become rather difficult.

I have torn the gun down recently, but done nothing with the hammer/sear. I pulled the trigger and hammer mechanism from the lower just to clean out superfluous grease and crap, then re-installed it. Seated fine, everything looks normal. The only part that was removed was the impact block reset bar and spring as, let's face it, they ALWAYS want to come out. I used to tape over them when the gun was torn down to keep them in place, but I don't bother anymore.

Anyway, I filed the breach block to lower the bevel slightly then (OMG) greased the hammer and breach block where they meet. So now, I can disassemble the slide/lower but it takes a LOT more effort than it used to. I re-blued the breach block before trying this again and it was worn off after one removal, so I'm pretty sure that this is where the friction is occurring.

I'm tempted to file a little more and see if I can loosen this up even more, but I'm not sure what kind of negative side-effects this might have. I've also considered filing the hammer so that the bevels match which should make things even easier. Suggestions welcome.

Hey, just out of curiosity, does the hammer position change (stick up more, specifically) as the impact block wears? This would explain a lot. :) Where does the impact bock wear, anyway? There's still paint on the front of mine (where it strikes the valve), I'm guessing it wears inside the groove...

Thanks!

#3 niko_gpsy

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 02:22 PM

Before we move forward, can you tell me if you notice any unusual wear on the head of the recoil spring guide?  Does the flat disc looking end looking very "chewed" up?
And can you post a pic of it?




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