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KWA LM4 general questions


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#1 yaiba2055

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 12:00 PM

Hello, friends.
Before I post this topic, I already read all the previous post about LM4 what upgrades should I put in and problems should I be aware as a newbie. There are still some unclear information that I need your help to clarify (My finance is not strong, so I do not want to take risk and break some parts of the gun). I will break down these questions in number, so if you know any questions please type the number of the the question and then answer it. As the result, we can all follow all of the question without missing some of them.

1) Guarder hop up bucking is mostly recommended, so I must not lube the bucking with silicon to avoid tear and wear?

2) The Danger Werx valve will lower the FPS, but the only valve I could find is for MP7. Will this fit the Lm4?

http://www.airsoftgi...roducts_id=8342


3) For the rocket valve spring, I just simply cut one coil (without shave or heat it up after?) a little bit decrease or stretch it out a little bit to increase the FPS?

4) For the lubricant oil, some people say it should be 30wt 100% pure silicon. I found this from the RC plane website. Is it okay?

http://www.rcplanet....l_p/asc5422.htm


5) Where should I lube the gun mostly? When I open the bolt carry, I see a lot of lubricant inside. For the magazine, still I should use 30wt pure silicon to lube it or just use 100% silicone spray type?

6) I really do not like the stock front sight of the M4 and planning to put in RIS rail system. But when I took out the front sight, I saw the gas tube sticking out. Also, what is the gas block? I saw many people posted some of the compatible rail. My question is, if I want to put in RIS rail, do I have to buy a gas block, change the gas tube, and repalce the outer barrel to make the stock front sight disappear?

7) People say install the Danco #10 will help the gas consumes less. Is this the one you are talking about?

http://www.homedepot...44#.UUTI4Bz0D3Q


Some of the questions might sound confuse to you (I am not a native English speaker) so please let me know so I can clarify with you again.

Thank you for reading.

Edited by yaiba2055, 16 March 2013 - 12:06 PM.


#2 pa1ntbru5h

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:16 PM

1) Correct. Do not lubricate the bucking.
2) Yes
3) Yes. You have to use trial and error. How much the fps will raise or drops depends on how much you cut or stretch.
4) Yes
5) use the 30wt for everything. The LM4 manual shows the points where you should lubricate. lots of us use a different lube for the bolt carrier group. (froglube, dry-film, etc.)
6) Gas tube is strictly for looks and does not change the function of the LM4, so you can remove it. Gas block is also just for looks. It holds the gas tube.
7) Yes

Edited by pa1ntbru5h, 16 March 2013 - 03:20 PM.


#3 jonsun81

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 04:14 PM

Mixed reviews on the danco #10, the ten pack seems to run thicker than the individually packed ones, which will cause problems.

#4 akiraspeedstar

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:16 PM









#5 Chuck S

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 04:34 AM

Run the gun stock for several months before jumping into what may be unnecessary modifications. :)

I've seen no need for drastic modifications to my LM4 but she's setup to mimic my M4 carbines and I have no muzzle velocity restrictions using the gun as a trainer (not as a CQB games gun).

The stock KWA bucking and hop up works fine for me.  There is no need to change it at all for my use.  Note getting to the hop up and bucking requires removing the barrel from the receiver, a procedure fraught with damage potential by rushing or forcing the barrel nut out of the receiver and breaking the mufti-part upper.

For reduced muzzle velocity the new valve makes more sense to me than cutting coils off the spring.  If the valve drops the MV too far a few file strokes off the back of it will boost velocity.  Get a spare spring or two before you try cutting it.  Swapping the valve out lets you go back to a higher muzzle velocity easily.

The front sight tower does not get in the way of optics so mine are all standard barrels with the front sight tower in place.  Requires nothing more than a fine tooth saw and some filing/sanding to remove the top part of the sight.  The handguard end cap is secured to the front sight tower so if you want handguards you need to leave the front sight tower/gas block in place.  Note the gas tube on the LM4 is a dummy, of course, but it secures the barrel nut from turning in the real guns and to some extent in the LM4, at least once you've removed the barrel once and the Locktite is gone.

-- Chuck




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