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1911 MKII powerstroke


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#1 chuck ram

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 02:51 PM

I realized that it is not possible to powerstroke the mkII. I was wondering if there was anyway to allow me to utilize racking the slide back to release the slide (power stroke)?

#2 gcw360

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:41 PM

View Postchuck ram, on 12 November 2012 - 02:51 PM, said:

I realized that it is not possible to powerstroke the mkII. I was wondering if there was anyway to allow me to utilize racking the slide back to release the slide (power stroke)?
Not as far as I know with the design of the slide lock.

#3 Chuck S

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 04:07 AM

I've been looking at this problem since summer and the only solution is to modify the slide stop by putting something on the front edge or a spring to push it off when the slide moves back.  Try to find my thread on this where the slide stop mod is shown by another member.

Removing the buffer does not work!

-- Chuck

#4 Outlaw1995

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 02:53 PM

I found a way to powerstroke the gun. Uploading a new thread/video soon...

#5 Chuck S

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 04:00 AM

We're waiting..................   :)

-- Chuck

#6 Outlaw1995

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 04:53 AM

View PostChuck S, on 14 November 2012 - 04:00 AM, said:

We're waiting..................   :)

-- Chuck
Sorry, having video uploading problems... :/
Give me by the end of the day LOL

#7 Outlaw1995

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 04:15 PM

Can't make a video, so... I set out to find a simple mod that could be done to solve the problem. First I thought of grinding material off the slide. Then, I thought about having the slide release lever be spring loaded. Eventually I came to the conclusion that it is the rubber buffer that keeps the slide from traveling any further, promoting the life span of the product and ensures the slide to have a snappy return to battery.


Warning: this mod has only been tested and it works. It has been tested by KWA that longevity of your gun may and will be decreased after doing this mod. Doing this mod will most likely void warranty. Do it after your 45 days is up!

There's a rubber washer that acts a buffer that's located on the recoil plug. When removing the rubber washer that acts as a cushion, or impact reducer, when knocking into the recoil plug, the slide can travel far enough to knock down the slide release lever and effectively load a new round in a fresh magazine into the gun via powerstroke. So remove only the rubber washer, and keep the metal washer still on. Removing both will cause the gas block and other parts to get stuck on the hammer and keep your slide locked open. Remember, these pieces on the recoil plug also ensure that the slide blows back the correct length every time, so removing both will cause the jam aforesaid.

With just the rubber washer is removed, the slide will be able to come back just a little more, so the notch on the slide will knock into the slide release lever and knock it down, allowing you to power stroke the gun when a fresh magazine is in the gun, or even when the gun doesn't have a mag in it at all.

Removing the metal washer and keeping the rubber buffer will cause slight problems with the powerstroke technique. The buffer gets caught up in the recoil spring and sometimes decreases performance and may cause the blow back to falter.

Edited by Outlaw1995, 17 November 2012 - 10:38 AM.


#8 chuck ram

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:15 PM

View PostOutlaw1995, on 15 November 2012 - 04:15 PM, said:

Can't make a video, so... I set out to find a simple mod that could be done to solve the problem. First I thought of grinding material off the slide. Then, I thought about having the slide release lever be spring loaded. Eventually I came to the conclusion that it is the rubber buffer that keeps the slide from traveling any further, promoting the life span of the product and ensures the slide to have a snappy return to battery.


Warning: this mod has only been tested and it works. It has been tested by KWA that longevity of your gun may and will be decreased after doing this mod. Doing this mod will most likely void warranty. Do it after your 45 days is up!

There's a rubber washer that acts a buffer that's located on the recoil plug. When removing the rubber washer that acts as a cushion, or impact reducer, when knocking into the recoil plug, the slide can travel far enough to knock down the slide release lever and effectively load a new round in a fresh magazine into the gun via powerstroke. So remove only the rubber washer, and keep the metal washer still on. Removing both will cause the gas block and other parts to get stuck on the hammer and keep your slide locked open. Remember, these pieces on the recoil plug also ensure that the slide blows back the correct length every time, so removing both will cause the jam aforesaid.

With just the rubber washer is removed, the slide will be able to come back just a little more, so the notch on the slide will knock into the slide release lever and knock it down, allowing you to power stroke the gun when a fresh magazine is in the gun, or even when the gun doesn't have a mag in it at all.

Removing the metal washer and keeping the rubber buffer will cause slight problems with the powerstroke technique. The buffer gets caught up in the recoil spring and sometimes decreases performance and may cause the blow back to falter.

Thanks man. That was quite simple and effective.

#9 Chuck S

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 04:06 AM

How do I read this?  The text is dark grey on black...  OK, I found the "theme" notation on the bottom of the page!  :)

This is the first thing I tried months ago and it does not work.  Certainly not with my Mark I.

Removing either the rubber "buffer" or the washer causes my pistol to lock open at every shot as the slide hangs up on the lip of the hammer.

I've no clue what that lip is for -- other than to catch the slide if the washer is missing.  :)  Any reason I can't grid it off?

- Chuck

Edited by Chuck S, 16 November 2012 - 11:24 AM.


#10 Outlaw1995

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 04:12 PM

View PostChuck S, on 16 November 2012 - 04:06 AM, said:

Removing either the rubber "buffer" or the washer causes my pistol to lock open at every shot as the slide hangs up on the lip of the hammer.
I know what you mean. When I removed both metal washer and rubber buffer, the MK II had the same effect. Maybe each pistols' components are slightly different to their counterparts due to the different make-up of each of the guns.

So looking at a parts diagram, the MK I has a guide rod, opposed to the MK II, which as I'm sure you already know, just uses the standard plug... If you cut down the rubber washer buffer to size, you may be able to get that slide far enough back just to knock the slide release lever down. If you decide to do that, buy a few part 85s (recoil buffers) so that if you mess up, you've got more to experiment with. Getting that buffer as thin as possible to ensure the gun cycles properly but goes far enough back to disengage the slide release would do the trick.

#11 Chuck S

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 05:03 PM

The Mark I has a full length recoil spring guide, the Mark II has a "GI" length.  The length of the rod makes no difference to the pistol's operation, the long rod just complicates the disassembly.  The Mark I appears to be a "Kimber" clone even to the hole thru the rod.

The aft end of either recoil spring guide is the same construction so I guess we're into individual tolerances on these parts.

Just what purpose does that lip on the hammer serve?

-- Chuck

#12 Outlaw1995

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 05:19 PM

View PostChuck S, on 16 November 2012 - 05:03 PM, said:

Just what purpose does that lip on the hammer serve?
Smoother blow back action is my guess. If by lip you mean that rounded part of the hammer, then yeah, it's just like the little rolling cylinder on the hammer of the LM4, just aids in smoother blowback.

"The aft end of either recoil spring guide is the same construction so I guess we're into individual tolerances on these parts." Yeah... I guess so.

Also, the lip gets caught in between the blowback housing and the space behind the hole of the cylinder... there's a slight space in between where the lip gets caught. The slide isn't designed to travel THAT far so that's why we experience the issue.


The mod I suggested works for my MK II, so it must be a different case for each pistol.

Edited by gcw360, 17 November 2012 - 03:56 PM.


#13 Chuck S

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 04:56 AM

By lip I mean the projection of the front top corner of the hammer.  This does not exist on real M1911 hammers where there's a smooth, rounded corner.  The geometry indicates the lip does let the slide push the hammer a bit farther down with the slide is retracted than if it was not there.  The lip appears to be there on both style hammers (assuming the parts sketches are accurate).

Lack of the ability to retract and close the slide from slide lock is an annoying "feature" of what's advertised as a Professional Training Pistol.  The M1911 runs a 7 (or 8) round magazine and shooting to slide lock is common.  Cycling the slide (not depressing the slide lock) is the preferred technique of all the professional training I've taken.  One motion for everything:  loading, unloading, stoppage, magazine changes.

Just 'cuz I'm not smart enough to find a fix I have confidence in the skills I've seen displayed here for one to appear!  :)

-- Chuck

#14 gcw360

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 09:37 AM

View PostOutlaw1995, on 15 November 2012 - 04:15 PM, said:

Can't make a video, so... I set out to find a simple mod that could be done to solve the problem. First I thought of grinding material off the slide. Then, I thought about having the slide release lever be spring loaded. Eventually I came to the conclusion that it is the rubber buffer that keeps the slide from traveling any further, promoting the life span of the product and ensures the slide to have a snappy return to battery.


Warning: this mod has only been tested and it works. It has been tested by KWA that longevity of your gun may and will be decreased after doing this mod. Doing this mod will most likely void warranty. Do it after your 45 days is up!

There's a rubber washer that acts a buffer that's located on the recoil plug. When removing the rubber washer that acts as a cushion, or impact reducer, when knocking into the recoil plug, the slide can travel far enough to knock down the slide release lever and effectively load a new round in a fresh magazine into the gun via powerstroke. So remove only the rubber washer, and keep the metal washer still on. Removing both will cause the gas block and other parts to get stuck on the hammer and keep your slide locked open. Remember, these pieces on the recoil plug also ensure that the slide blows back the correct length every time, so removing both will cause the jam aforesaid.

With just the rubber washer is removed, the slide will be able to come back just a little more, so the notch on the slide will knock into the slide release lever and knock it down, allowing you to power stroke the gun when a fresh magazine is in the gun, or even when the gun doesn't have a mag in it at all.

Removing the metal washer and keeping the rubber buffer will cause slight problems with the powerstroke technique. The buffer gets caught up in the recoil spring and sometimes decreases performance and may cause the blow back to falter.

Text fixed.

#15 Outlaw1995

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 10:37 AM

View Postgcw360, on 17 November 2012 - 09:37 AM, said:

Text fixed.
Thanks dude! :) Sorry I didn't realize text was gray, it appeared black for me.

#16 steelfallenangel

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:19 AM

Hey I just tried this on my Mk2 and it does appear to allow you to powerstroke the slide. I'm just curious on for anyone whos down this to their PTPs if they have had any problems with wear and tear or anything else.

#17 Outlaw1995

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 05:52 AM

Steelfallenangel, glad it worked for you. I've put a few hundreds rounds down range with my MkII after the mod, so far no issues. But with the recoil impact buffer out of the gun, extra stress will be put on your recoil guide rod, your recoil plug, barrel bushing and possibly your barrel. As I haven't seen any issues as of yet, exercise with caution!

Edited by Outlaw1995, 05 December 2012 - 05:53 AM.


#18 steelfallenangel

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:56 AM

Ok thank you for the reply. If you've had a few hundred down range with it I should be ok. In games it truly is a sidearm and I usually only draw it if I need to clear behind a tight 90' corner. Now with that done I just need to get to the hardware store to get the right allen key to remove the vanilla grips for my own crimson trace desert grips and get that punisher compensator custom fitted.

#19 Outlaw1995

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:46 PM

View Poststeelfallenangel, on 05 December 2012 - 09:56 AM, said:

Ok thank you for the reply. If you've had a few hundred down range with it I should be ok. In games it truly is a sidearm and I usually only draw it if I need to clear behind a tight 90' corner. Now with that done I just need to get to the hardware store to get the right allen key to remove the vanilla grips for my own crimson trace desert grips and get that punisher compensator custom fitted.
Good luck getting that compensator on the gun. When it's on, please post some pics up on the PTP Photo Gallery thread. I'd love to see it.

#20 Tyrannus4842

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 09:45 PM

Oh wow. I just came into this topic after wondering about the 1911 PTP series.

Was very interested in buying one of these to practice my reloads when I'm not on the range, but I reload via power stroking the slide.

Well, this is a bummer. Maybe KWA should redesign their GBB's to implement this? Or they can simply take off the "PTP" since I can't train with it.




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