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CQR MOD 2 leaking air nozzle

cqr leak problem air nozzle

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#1 MattyCams

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 04:38 PM

My CQR MOD 2 should be shooting closer to 380 and it is shooting 330-340. I opened up the gun to the gear box and while testing the seal on the piston and piston head I could not push the piston through. However, when I put the air nozzle and tapet plate on I could push the piston all the way through. Does this mean I need a new air nozzle, and if so which one could I buy that would fit in it? This is the only air nozzle on the kwa store. Would this work?
http://store.kwausa....lock-1-2-3.aspx

#2 gcw360

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 07:00 PM

Shooting around 340 FPS with .2 BB's is the correct performance for a MD 2 in it's stock configuration.  Have you made modifications to it that would make you expect 380 FPS?  Regarding the compression, it is virtually impossible to accurately asses compression with the tappet plate, nozzle, cylinder assembly and piston assembly in hand.  Really! I, and a number of others, simply do as you initially did, by pushing the piston while holding your finger over the end of the brass cylinder head nozzle.  If it's good there, as you indicated it is, you are typically okay especially with a new gun.  For example, I replaced my KWA nozzle with one from the Pro Shop after about 150,000 rounds.  FYI, the FPS was essentially the same so I kept the old one for a spare.

#3 MattyCams

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 11:28 PM

View Postgcw360, on 04 December 2012 - 07:00 PM, said:

Shooting around 340 FPS with .2 BB's is the correct performance for a MD 2 in it's stock configuration.  Have you made modifications to it that would make you expect 380 FPS?  Regarding the compression, it is virtually impossible to accurately asses compression with the tappet plate, nozzle, cylinder assembly and piston assembly in hand.  Really! I, and a number of others, simply do as you initially did, by pushing the piston while holding your finger over the end of the brass cylinder head nozzle.  If it's good there, as you indicated it is, you are typically okay especially with a new gun.  For example, I replaced my KWA nozzle with one from the Pro Shop after about 150,000 rounds.  FYI, the FPS was essentially the same so I kept the old one for a spare.

I have put in a new cylinder that has the port farther back and I just put in a new m120 spring; I am getting ~360 fps. Shouldn't I be right at 400 fps with .2 bbs?

#4 niko_gpsy

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:03 AM

What brand cylinder are you using?
And I suggest applying a little silicone oil inside the air nozzle using a Q-tip.  Sometimes this is all it's needed if you are indeed losing compression around that area.  But you are correct that you should expect an FPS of around 400 if you are using a Type-0.5 or type-1 cylinder.

#5 MattyCams

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:44 PM

View Postniko_gpsy, on 05 December 2012 - 09:03 AM, said:

What brand cylinder are you using?
And I suggest applying a little silicone oil inside the air nozzle using a Q-tip.  Sometimes this is all it's needed if you are indeed losing compression around that area.  But you are correct that you should expect an FPS of around 400 if you are using a Type-0.5 or type-1 cylinder.
I bought a kwa km4 cylinder I believe.  I will try putting some silicon oil on and see if it helps. If it doesn't should I try buying a replacement air nozzle? Would the one I originally linked work? Thank you by the way, I appreciate you trying to help me out.

#6 niko_gpsy

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 01:45 PM

The problem could also be from your cylinder air spout so replacing just the air nozzle may or may not work.
And the linked air nozzle is the KWA nozzle so yes it will work. But try the silicone oil method and see if it helps first before ordering parts.


#7 MattyCams

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 08:44 AM

View Postniko_gpsy, on 05 December 2012 - 01:45 PM, said:

The problem could also be from your cylinder air spout so replacing just the air nozzle may or may not work.
And the linked air nozzle is the KWA nozzle so yes it will work. But try the silicone oil method and see if it helps first before ordering parts.
So I tried the silicone oil and it seemed to help a little bit is still leaking. When I tested it again I could see air bubble seeping through. You can actually see a tiny lip in the metal where the leak is. Should I think about replacing it now? Or do you think another on will do the same thing?

#8 niko_gpsy

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 11:38 AM

To be ABSOLUTELY positive I would change both the nozzle and cylinder head.

#9 hellcat

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 07:04 PM

View Postniko_gpsy, on 08 December 2012 - 11:38 AM, said:

To be ABSOLUTELY positive I would change both the nozzle and cylinder head.

i agree.....changed my nozzle and cylinder head after 1 1/2 years of use. leakage was greatly reduced with new parts.





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