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Removing White markings


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#1 CynicBlue

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 02:17 PM

Just got the gun and loving so far. What I don't like is the giant white paragraph on the slide. I hear to remove it you can sand it down but I don't want risking scratching the slide. I don't really feel the need to spend extra money and get a third party slide either. Is there anyway to remove the markings without damaging the slide?

#2 Dirt Bag

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 05:45 AM

There should be some threads on this in the USP section. I used nail polish remover for my USP. It left a small mark on my slide and made the polymer shiny. The very next time I played with the gun I left a big scratch on it. While reaching through a window to surrender two guys the slide rubbed against the window.  Just added some character.

#3 akiraspeedstar

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:48 AM

I originally used Aluminum Black but it took a LONG time and in the end didn't come out how I'd like. I then went over it with a super light coating of flat black paint and it's held up for months so far. You can't even tell that I painted the slide unless I told you.

#4 bryanchang

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 08:58 PM

I removed the white warning text on my USP with paint and varnish remover. Just use Q-tip with paint stripper to rub the white paint out. You need to quickly apply the chemical and wipe it off, only work on a few characters at a time, or the base black paint will be stripped off, too.

#5 Chuck S

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 07:05 AM

The white paint is all that clues me that this is an airsoft pistol not my service pistol!  :)

Posted Image

-- Chuck

#6 BoobieM4H

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 07:45 AM

Lmfao..here we go again...

( o Y o )



#7 gcw360

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 08:34 AM

 Chuck S, on 02 February 2013 - 07:05 AM, said:

The white paint is all that clues me that this is an airsoft pistol not my service pistol!  :)

Posted Image

-- Chuck
The white markings the OP is referring to, I think, are the Umarex trade statements which are actually painted on.  The white trades on most other KWA's are laser etchings.  These laser trades are now subdued on the new guns and can be toned down with Birchwood Casey's aluminum black.  This is not an ideal treatment but it works.

For my HK 45 I literally, and lightly, scraped off the white paint with the flat edge of a knife.  I then used BC to tone down the color.  Since then I have applied Krylon camo flat black. From there I lightly buffed it with an old silicone gun rag to soften the flat finish to a bit of a luster. If you do this a few hours after the initial paint application the finish will take on a sheen.  From there I let the paint dry without touching it for a full week. It's an acceptable alternative to the white paint and a good approach assuming you don't want to repaint the entire slide.

#8 Outlaw1995

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 12:23 PM

 gcw360, on 02 February 2013 - 08:34 AM, said:

For my HK 45 I literally, and lightly, scraped off the white paint with the flat edge of a knife.  I then used BC to tone down the color.  Since then I have applied Krylon camo flat black. From there I lightly buffed it with an old silicone gun rag to soften the flat finish to a bit of a luster.
I hope you know what I'm gonna say... :nopics:  :P
Those grips make your M9 a beauty, Chuck!

#9 gcw360

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 01:34 PM

As you wish.  Here are two pics.  One of the full gun and the same shot cropped for detail.  Let me know what you think.  I only did a quick job but it seemed to do the trick.

Posted Image

Posted Image

#10 BoobieM4H

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 01:36 PM

Looks like a real gun! Lol..but really tho..looks awesome..good job

( o Y o )



#11 gcw360

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 01:37 PM

 BoobieM4H, on 02 February 2013 - 01:36 PM, said:

Looks like a real gun! Lol..but really tho..looks awesome..good job

( o Y o )
Thank you....I hate sloppy work, and that's high praise coming from you!

#12 BoobieM4H

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 01:52 PM

 gcw360, on 02 February 2013 - 01:37 PM, said:

Thank you....I hate sloppy work, and that's high praise coming from you!
You notice some of my guns are shiny/polished? Cause i have no patience to paint..and when i see a good paint job i envy that lol

( o Y o )



#13 Outlaw1995

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:36 PM

That's one good looking gun. Speaking of paint jobs and removing paint... I have to get around to completely removing all black paint off my M9 to give it a stainless steel look. Any thoughts as to what I should use to remove the paint off the slide? I'm thinking acetone nail polish remover perhaps... (I would of course gut the internals)

#14 bryanchang

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:40 PM

 Outlaw1995, on 02 February 2013 - 02:36 PM, said:

That's one good looking gun. Speaking of paint jobs and removing paint... I have to get around to completely removing all black paint off my M9 to give it a stainless steel look. Any thoughts as to what I should use to remove the paint off the slide? I'm thinking acetone nail polish remover perhaps... (I would of course gut the internals)

Disassemble the slide, take out all the plastic parts, and dip the metal slide into paint stripper. Should only take 20 minutes to get all the paint out.

#15 gcw360

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:43 PM

 BoobieM4H, on 02 February 2013 - 01:52 PM, said:

You notice some of my guns are shiny/polished? Cause i have no patience to paint..and when i see a good paint job i envy that lol

( o Y o )
Well, I got my painting chops doing several years of Pine Wood Derby with my son when he was in Scouts....sand, prime, paint....Gotta say though, this was just a quick partial overcoat and gentle rubbing to cut back the the flat finish and blend the edges. It's only repainted from the ejection port forward and the top edge down to just above the laser engraving.   I'm thinking of waiting a week and doing a Krylon clear flat coat to protect it but since it's not an AEG that's gonna get beat on I may pass.  Besides, the Krylon flat camo has held up very well on my SR5 without it.  The key is to really go for the long slow dry (1 full week or more) unless you bake it in an oven and frankly I was too lazy to take off the plastic parts...LOL.

#16 Outlaw1995

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:48 PM

 bryanchang, on 02 February 2013 - 02:40 PM, said:

Disassemble the slide, take out all the plastic parts, and dip the metal slide into paint stripper. Should only take 20 minutes to get all the paint out.
Thanks bryan. Any brand of paint stripper will do?

#17 gcw360

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:56 PM

 Outlaw1995, on 02 February 2013 - 02:48 PM, said:

Thanks bryan. Any brand of paint stripper will do?
Yup, get it at Home Depot, it's cheap too.  Thing is, once you strip it because it's an aluminum alloy, you will need to polish it from time to time unless you re-coat with a durable clear of some sort.

#18 bryanchang

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 03:04 PM

 Outlaw1995, on 02 February 2013 - 02:48 PM, said:

Thanks bryan. Any brand of paint stripper will do?

This is what I use:

Posted Image

#19 BoobieM4H

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:00 AM

 gcw360, on 02 February 2013 - 02:43 PM, said:

Well, I got my painting chops doing several years of Pine Wood Derby with my son when he was in Scouts....sand, prime, paint....Gotta say though, this was just a quick partial overcoat and gentle rubbing to cut back the the flat finish and blend the edges. It's only repainted from the ejection port forward and the top edge down to just above the laser engraving.   I'm thinking of waiting a week and doing a Krylon clear flat coat to protect it but since it's not an AEG that's gonna get beat on I may pass.  Besides, the Krylon flat camo has held up very well on my SR5 without it.  The key is to really go for the long slow dry (1 full week or more) unless you bake it in an oven and frankly I was too lazy to take off the plastic parts...LOL.

This is why i lack the patience..lol

( o Y o )



#20 CynicBlue

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 02:06 AM

Sounds like so much work lol but I shall try out some of these methods, thanks.




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