Jump to content


Mg36


  • Please log in to reply
60 replies to this topic

#41 2621

2621

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NC
  • Interests:Lifting, swimming, running, beach, muscle cars, cigars
  • Country:

Posted 16 February 2012 - 01:15 PM

Since we're on the subject of batteries and cycling issues, I won't have a problem with a 7.4V 15c LIPO will I?

#42 niko_gpsy

niko_gpsy

    What's a Warranty?

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 5,854 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Atlanta, GA
  • Interests:Keeping those damn squirrels from putting their filthy little paws on my peaches in my backyard. Oh, Yes. It's not just a hobby, its a passion!!
  • Country:

Posted 16 February 2012 - 01:17 PM

View Post2621, on 16 February 2012 - 01:15 PM, said:

Since we're on the subject of batteries and cycling issues, I won't have a problem with a 7.4V 15c LIPO will I?
You will be just fine.

#43 2621

2621

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NC
  • Interests:Lifting, swimming, running, beach, muscle cars, cigars
  • Country:

Posted 16 February 2012 - 01:25 PM

Cool, worried I would have to mod it more.lol

#44 R_King91303

R_King91303

    Specialist

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 461 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canoga Park, CA
  • Interests:Airsoft, Texas Hold'em, Research (learning new shizz)
  • Country:

Posted 25 February 2012 - 09:44 PM

So I put in a Guarder SP90, new o-ring (getting perfect compression), and get a decent ROF on a 8.4. However, I now have a problem with the trigger assembly. Semi doesn't quite work as the trigger locks after each shot and doesn't reset; you have to pop it back into the fire position with your trigger finger. I am a bit confused because when the battery is disconnected the trigger works perfectly fine. Also the selector plate is now loose, when full auto is engaged it moves the fire selector to between full and semi and now effectively makes it a 40-60 bb burst mode; which is a problem I would actually prefer to keep for when the conversion is complete.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#45 gcw360

gcw360

    Supreme Guru

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 11,300 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Jersey
  • Interests:Airsoft (Especially repair and customizing), Fly Fishing, Fossils (Especially Dino), Snakes, Photography
  • Country:

Posted 25 February 2012 - 10:19 PM

Lets get to the point.  The issues are:
  • Trigger doesn't reset/locks in semi
  • Fire slector not operating properly...
For #1 try a different battery.  It sounds like the gun isn't cycling fully an causing the trigger to hang up on the trigger block

FYI, I would normally ask if the trigger spring was properly installed  for issue #1.  But seeing you say that it works fine without the battery, then I think it's the battery.....


Here's a thought, when you stripped down the gun did you pull off the fire selector switches???

Regarding #2...I need more info.  Lets work on #1 first shall we?

#46 R_King91303

R_King91303

    Specialist

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 461 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canoga Park, CA
  • Interests:Airsoft, Texas Hold'em, Research (learning new shizz)
  • Country:

Posted 25 February 2012 - 11:04 PM

Tried it with both a 8.4 and 9.6. Same problem, it looks like it locks into a compressed state with the spring after the trigger is pulled and the gun has fired. Didn't touch the selector plate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by R_King91303, 25 February 2012 - 11:19 PM.


#47 Dingo

Dingo

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Country:

Posted 01 March 2012 - 06:21 PM

I'm having the same exact issue with my G36c. however, the selector plate fell off while I had the gear box apart.  The trigger returns fine with the battery disconnected but sticks in semi-auto and also sticks in full auto but only occasionally, not with every trigger pull.  It seems to react if I mess with the fire select on the body of the gun, but not consistently.  I think it is cycling correctly because I don't get any mis-fires and the FPS is right where I expected it to be with the new spring.

#48 Ricochet808

Ricochet808

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 91 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Maui Hawaii
  • Country:

Posted 04 March 2012 - 12:28 AM

View PostR_King91303, on 25 February 2012 - 11:04 PM, said:

Tried it with both a 8.4 and 9.6. Same problem, it looks like it locks into a compressed state with the spring after the trigger is pulled and the gun has fired. Didn't touch the selector plate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you make sure the little spring that goes into hole in the trigger is actually properly in place?

Had that happen to my gun recently. Had me bamboozled for a little bit till I noticed.

Trigger would not reset in semi, but would function fine in full auto.

#49 R_King91303

R_King91303

    Specialist

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 461 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canoga Park, CA
  • Interests:Airsoft, Texas Hold'em, Research (learning new shizz)
  • Country:

Posted 12 March 2012 - 06:04 PM

I made sure that the trigger spring was installed correctly; the small arm was inserted into the easy to overlook hole cut into gearbox.


KWA ARMORY:
SR10
G36c
H&K MP7
H&K USP
KZ75

#50 coulombecrew

coulombecrew

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Country:

Posted 13 March 2012 - 08:12 PM

Hopefully Cerveza is still watching this thread....   First of all this is a great thread!  Just got my gun back up and running.  Did a bunch of mods. I changed the spring to a prommetheus sp135.  Cut 2 loops and rebent spring to ensure it sits flush/flat in piston.  Put in stock barrel and ended up chronoing way hot in my book.  444 w/ .20s and 380 w/.25 bioval biodegradeable.  Darn you kwa for making a precision product. hehe.  I do have a 425 edgi 6.01 barrel that I don't even dare to put in right now.  Prob be out of regs for outdoor too. I do use a gemtech g5 QD "barrel extension" works awesome.  I did modify the foregrip a little so I can bottom out the flash hider and use it as a QD. I did install the 425 barrel and barrel extension and the inner barrel was right at the tip of the barrel extension. Just havent chrono'd yet. Thinking it might hit 460 w .20.  Installed cheeta mofset with trigger master software so I could run a 11.1v 3300 mah battery in a peq box.  That solved my probs with over cycling.  Dropped motor speed down 20%. With the stiffer spring I prob could run full speed or at least 10% down.  Dont mind saving ammo. Doesn't shoot like lightning....however i'm not worried bout running out of juice though.
just my 2cents.

#51 Cerveza

Cerveza

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Country:

Posted 14 March 2012 - 03:51 AM

View Postcoulombecrew, on 13 March 2012 - 08:12 PM, said:

Hopefully Cerveza is still watching this thread....  

My first stop when checking the forums ;) thanks for all the info coulombecrew!

My G36C is on it's way and should arrive before this Friday. Our field has an Op the following weekend. I'm going to try to get 2k or so shot through  the gun prior to the Op to try to get things "broken in" a bit. Of course there will be barrel cleaning after every mag.

I picked up a Magpul AFG2 last weekend, but unfortunately it didn't last long enough to make it to my gun. My son wanted to try it out on his SR7 instead of his stubby. "Dad, I love my new vertical grip". Congrats son, of course it's yours now! I'll sneak it away from my son long enough to try it out on the G36C to see if I want to get one for myself. I know the lower rail is too short for the entire length of the AFG. I see a lot of longer bottom rails out there, is there one that would fit the stock KWA fore grip? I don't really care for the types that "hang over" the screw in the back, is there anything that can be done to put a screw in the back and front, and perhaps even in the middle as well?

I ordered a 9.6/1600 Nunchuck with the gun so we can interchange batteries. I'm still looking at LiPo upgrades for the both of us and have pretty much settled on THIS ONE, but it's a 20C. I see a lot of guys running 20C without issues. If that one is a problem then I suppose I could use THIS ONE as recommended by JROC311 in another thread, or the BOL from the KWA shop found HERE.

I'm going stock for the first couple of months. I was planning on a longer TBB and M130 spring. Now I'm thinking of sticking with the stock barrel length and just doing the spring. My goal will be just under 400 FPS with .25's. Lemme ask you this coulombecrew - do you notice an increase in accuracy when using a longer barrel? Just from the longer barrel though, not changing the diameter. So if you have a stock barrel length with a 6.03 or 6.01 TBB, do you notice an increase in accuracy when going to a 425 6.03? I've been reading a lot about barrel length alone not really making any difference in accuracy.

We're both really looking forward to the Op on the 24th. I'm actually kind of exciting to be getting a "real" gun out in the field along side my son's.

Edited by Cerveza, 14 March 2012 - 03:57 AM.


#52 Cerveza

Cerveza

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Country:

Posted 29 March 2012 - 08:09 AM

The Op was a blast. G36C was shooting sweet. So far just a red dot sight and a stubby vertical grip on it. Very happy with the 9.6/1600 battery rof and duration.

I'm getting LiPo for my son's SR7 and will probably get two of THESE. One for him and one for me. I'm assuming it will fit both guns.

What I'm wondering about is the formula to figure out the current? This battery is 11.1v with 1800mAh and a 15C discharge rate. Would that be in specs current wise for KWA products?

I'm already planning on putting in an EDG1 6.01 and an M130 very soon as well. I want to shoot right around 400fps with .25's

#53 R_King91303

R_King91303

    Specialist

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 461 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canoga Park, CA
  • Interests:Airsoft, Texas Hold'em, Research (learning new shizz)
  • Country:

Posted 29 March 2012 - 08:49 AM

View PostCerveza, on 29 March 2012 - 08:09 AM, said:

The Op was a blast. G36C was shooting sweet. So far just a red dot sight and a stubby vertical grip on it. Very happy with the 9.6/1600 battery rof and duration.

I'm getting LiPo for my son's SR7 and will probably get two of THESE. One for him and one for me. I'm assuming it will fit both guns.

What I'm wondering about is the formula to figure out the current? This battery is 11.1v with 1800mAh and a 15C discharge rate. Would that be in specs current wise for KWA products?

I'm already planning on putting in an EDG1 6.01 and an M130 very soon as well. I want to shoot right around 400fps with .25's

I am going by memory, but I believe the recommend max amps is 20. The formula to find amps should be mAH * C, or in this case 1.8 mAH * 15c = 27 amps. Using the above formula, with a 15c rate you would want no more than 1300 mAH or 1000 mAH with a 20c rate (to stay within specs). People have claimed to push 25 - 30 amps with no problems.....


Posted from my iPhone

#54 Cerveza

Cerveza

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Country:

Posted 29 March 2012 - 09:52 AM

Thanks for the reply. Though now I'm more confused then ever....

KWA parts (officially the KWA parts store) has two LiPo batteries.

11.1/1400/15C which is above the 1300 limit. AND this batteries picture shows 1600mAh?
11.1/1800/15C which is WAY above the 1300 limit. AND this batteries picture also shows 1600mAh?

I've watched the videos and read the posts. I've seen people who claim certain batteries work great, while forum moderators warn them the battery is out of specs. Since the gun has a 20A fuse, I'd imagine that your numbers are right for 15C/1300 and 20C/1000. It's just really hard to find batteries that fit those numbers and fit the dimensions.

And I'm still confused as to why KWA would sell batteries that are out of spec?

#55 KWChris

KWChris

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Monterey, CA
  • Interests:Airsoft, Mountain Biking, Pistol
  • Country:

Posted 29 March 2012 - 02:01 PM

View PostCerveza, on 29 March 2012 - 09:52 AM, said:

Thanks for the reply. Though now I'm more confused then ever....

KWA parts (officially the KWA parts store) has two LiPo batteries.

11.1/1400/15C which is above the 1300 limit. AND this batteries picture shows 1600mAh?
11.1/1800/15C which is WAY above the 1300 limit. AND this batteries picture also shows 1600mAh?

I've watched the videos and read the posts. I've seen people who claim certain batteries work great, while forum moderators warn them the battery is out of specs. Since the gun has a 20A fuse, I'd imagine that your numbers are right for 15C/1300 and 20C/1000. It's just really hard to find batteries that fit those numbers and fit the dimensions.

And I'm still confused as to why KWA would sell batteries that are out of spec?


The same confusions, give or take i suppose are also what stopped me dead in my tracks from continuing my pursuit of LiPo batteries. While I do plan on getting a variant of 7.4 in the near future, a whole lot of the mumbo jumbo found on them is definitely confusing to say the least.

I generally find most people fail to mention use of MOSFETS when running their LiPo's, or give a half-hearted explanation that maybe some of us more electrical-handicaps may not understand. This will be a super basic explanation just based on my readings so far but anyway; The MOSFETs allow us to use batteries that go well over the "suggested" min-max amperage on the guns by controlling how many amps are actually sent up to the gearbox, and re-routing entirely away from your trigger contacts. The goal of the MOSFET I believe is to use a signal from your trigger when pulled, which uses a very small amount of power, telling the FET to pull from the battery; at this point, whether thats 20-24 amps, or 30-60+ in some users cases; the MOSFET acts as a controller, and takes only the necessary amps your gearbox/motor etc will safely use. All that extra power allows for the mosfet to take a consistent, and safe current to your gearbox. It also eliminates all those amps going to the weaker trigger contacts that would in turn fry when you pulled the trigger a few times or more.

While all this is a pretty lame, or dumbed-down explanation; there is still a whole lot i'm unsure of and don't know about on the subject of mosfets, but hopefully that helps a little and someone more experienced on the topic will be able to answer questions. I'm now stuck and confused as to what sort of MOSFET to get for my gun. There are a lot of computerized ones that allow you to do all sorts of things like burst fire etc, but I'm leaning more toward something basic with active braking, as I don't intend on doing anything to my g36c; it performs great stock where i play.

#56 Cerveza

Cerveza

    Enthusiast

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Country:

Posted 31 March 2012 - 05:01 AM

I'm also at a stand still until I hear more info from "official" sources.

It seems this topic is a bit toxic though... I hope someone pops in and clerifies things regarding this issue so I can feel confident in purchasing LiPo batteries that are completely safe for use in our KWA products.

#57 R_King91303

R_King91303

    Specialist

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 461 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canoga Park, CA
  • Interests:Airsoft, Texas Hold'em, Research (learning new shizz)
  • Country:

Posted 08 April 2012 - 04:51 PM

I removed the sector chip and the compression timing appears to be non existent with an SP90 + 11.1v  The selector issue is a body issue and not a gearbox issue. The body's selector switch gears are extremely loose, so the vibration from the gear box makes the gears rotate the plate from full auto to semi > I'll need to somehow induce some friction within the gears so they are not so free moving; I'm thinking something tacky like a lil rubber cement. I still wasn't able to figure out why the trigger sticks on semi. I worked with the trigger spring (part # m44) but no success,I confirmed it has enough tension to reset the trigger; I am thinking the problem part is actually #m20.Posted Image


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?3o20i0
Posted from my iPhone

#58 gcw360

gcw360

    Supreme Guru

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 11,300 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Jersey
  • Interests:Airsoft (Especially repair and customizing), Fly Fishing, Fossils (Especially Dino), Snakes, Photography
  • Country:

Posted 08 April 2012 - 05:22 PM

For the loose selector...couldn't you adjust the switch by first loosening part 181 then pushing in the switch in and tightening part 181?  Not thinking that rubber cement is a good option.

http://kwausa.com/fi...A09V02_G36C.jpg

#59 R_King91303

R_King91303

    Specialist

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 461 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canoga Park, CA
  • Interests:Airsoft, Texas Hold'em, Research (learning new shizz)
  • Country:

Posted 08 April 2012 - 09:36 PM

View Postgcw360, on 08 April 2012 - 05:22 PM, said:

For the loose selector...couldn't you adjust the switch by first loosening part 181 then pushing in the switch in and tightening part 181?  Not thinking that rubber cement is a good option.

http://kwausa.com/fi...A09V02_G36C.jpg

Unless it creates friction on the body, tightening part 181doesn't look it would solve the problem based on the diagram; it's parts 51-53 that look to be the problem. The vibration of the gearbox looks to make them rotate internally, which makes the selectors move. I think the best solution would be to create more outward friction so parts 52 & 53 push against the body, but I don't see how it would be possible with the current design. The previous owner used at least a m130 spring in the gearbox (un-shimmed) with a 11.1v, so I wouldn't be surprised if the transferred energy to the shell caused the problem.


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?talv3e
Posted from my iPhone

#60 gcw360

gcw360

    Supreme Guru

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 11,300 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Jersey
  • Interests:Airsoft (Especially repair and customizing), Fly Fishing, Fossils (Especially Dino), Snakes, Photography
  • Country:

Posted 09 April 2012 - 05:09 PM

View PostR_King91303, on 08 April 2012 - 09:36 PM, said:

Unless it creates friction on the body, tightening part 181doesn't look it would solve the problem based on the diagram; it's parts 51-53 that look to be the problem. The vibration of the gearbox looks to make them rotate internally, which makes the selectors move. I think the best solution would be to create more outward friction so parts 52 & 53 push against the body, but I don't see how it would be possible with the current design. The previous owner used at least a m130 spring in the gearbox (un-shimmed) with a 11.1v, so I wouldn't be surprised if the transferred energy to the shell caused the problem.


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?talv3e
Posted from my iPhone
What I was thinking is by resetting the switch closer to the body/receiver of the gun you would compress the lever plunger spring (#149) that holds the selector lever plunger (#16) thus providing more resistance at the switch.  This done on both sides of the gun would help I think.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users