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H&K MP7 and M9 PTP Dos and Don'ts


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#1 kwaispro727

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 05:21 PM

I snagged an MP7 and spare mag for 180 bucks on Evike. Black Friday XD I also picked up an M9, sorry ATP. Is there anything special I should avoid doing? With regards to lubricating; where on both guns and how often? I'm assuming King Arms/Firepower green gas will do the job for both? I haven't owned a GBB before. Looking for some tips :)

#2 Outlaw1995

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 05:31 PM

Don't get any lubrication near the hop up buckings! Use green gas for at least your first 45 days so you have your warranty. For the M9, lubricating the frame's rails / slide where it contacts frames very lightly is enough. MP7: grooves on both sides of the bolt where it contacts the rails inside the frame, again, very lightly. You don't need to lubricate often if you use green gas, just mostly clean out. Have fun with your new guns!

#3 Chuck S

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 08:09 AM

I have both these for training (OK, OK, the MP7A1 is just for fun :) ) and neither is maintenance intensive or fragile.  A light film of silicone lube is all that's needed.

I found the trigger on the M9 PTP to be so light it didn't even approach realism.  After your warranty look at a stronger mainspring to get the trigger weight up near where she should be.

My only dislikes with the MP7 is the inability to lock the bolt open without use of an empty magazine and the tiny sling attachment points.  The 2-position stock is easily modified with several more notches.  I've added four more.

-- Chuck

#4 bid2630

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 08:39 AM

View PostChuck S, on 24 November 2012 - 08:09 AM, said:

The 2-position stock is easily modified with several more notches.  I've added four more.
-- Chuck

Chuck- What did you use to cut the additional notches?  And did you need to cut the notches on both arms or just one?  
Thinking of getting the MP7 but want an additional stop or two. Thanks.

#5 kwaispro727

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 10:00 AM

I have long arms so the fully extended position should be just right for me :)

#6 Chuck S

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 01:03 PM

Ya need to cut the notches in both arms and at the same point.  I added three (3) more positions for a total of four (4).

Note the notches on one side are on the top and on the bottom on the other  This actually makes getting them right easy.  Probably a YouTube video somewhere but it's easy.

Remove and disassemble the stock.  Mark the stock rail spacer (114) Left and Right so you reassemble the stock rails properly.

Connect the rails together (flip one over and nest them together) using a bolt thru one of the mounting holes.  The notches will all end up on one edge.

Clamp them together in a padded vice, make any fine adjustment needed so the existing notches line up, place your marks where you want them (I spaced mine 3/4" apart) and use a flat file to make the notches in both parts at once.  A micro saw will work too if you the file out piece left in the center.  Front face of the notch must be square to lock the stock in place against recoil.

(I could not find a way to Dremel the notches as the tool motor body gets in the way.)

Dress the raw edges with Aluminum Black.

Reassemble.

Yeah, it's snowing on the North Coast!

Posted Image

-- Chuck

Edited by Chuck S, 24 November 2012 - 01:06 PM.


#7 kwaispro727

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:13 AM

When I lubricate the MP7, is there anything that will cause trouble disassembling? It's apparently a real pain in the *** to get to the inner barrel.

#8 Chuck S

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:41 AM

I've not had the need to get to the inner barrel, nor is there any lubrication needed there.  My lubrication is strictly related to the moving part like the bolt.

-- Chuck

#9 gcw360

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 09:25 AM

View Postkwaispro727, on 25 November 2012 - 08:13 AM, said:

When I lubricate the MP7, is there anything that will cause trouble disassembling? It's apparently a real pain in the *** to get to the inner barrel.
Lubrication shouldn't cause trouble with disassembling.  As Chuck S stated, lube the moving parts.  What you don't want to do is get silicone on the bucking.  As has been written, this can cause the bucking to swell and then you would need to remove the inner barrel to replace the swelled bucking.  This is not an easy repair and best left to the experts.

#10 Comissar

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 10:37 AM

IMPORTANT!!!! NEVER close the bolt on a empty magazine, EVER, this will destroy the follower faster than you can say Yih-kai enterprises co. ( i did i twice when i first got my gun, waste of 90$ in my opinion)

#11 gcw360

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 11:41 AM

View PostComissar, on 25 November 2012 - 10:37 AM, said:

IMPORTANT!!!! NEVER close the bolt on a empty magazine, EVER, this will destroy the follower faster than you can say Yih-kai enterprises co. ( i did i twice when i first got my gun, waste of 90$ in my opinion)
Just curious, which gun did you ruin the follower on by releasing the bolt on an empty mag?

#12 kwaispro727

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 07:08 AM

Would it be a good idea to add a drop of silicone oil on the fill valve of the magazines every once in a while, or does the green gas have enough in it already?

#13 gcw360

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 07:39 AM

View Postkwaispro727, on 08 December 2012 - 07:08 AM, said:

Would it be a good idea to add a drop of silicone oil on the fill valve of the magazines every once in a while, or does the green gas have enough in it already?
I do that, add a drop every now and then.  I think it's a good idea.

#14 Comissar

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 08:25 PM

Oh sorry it was the mp7A1




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